Intake duct alternatives?

I soaked my hardened carburetor box boots in alcohol and wintergreen oil solution ( 2 parts alcohol, 1 part oil) for 3 days and now they are soft and pliable like new ones, this solution works very well and you can save it for future use.

I've definitely heard the wintergreen but never got around to actually finding any...I've heard xylene works well instead of alcohol. I had tried silicone (spray) to no avail, but bought some DOT 3 brake fluid and so far am impressed with results after 2 days and will go for 3-4 like mopguy said. Already 2 boots are usable, and other two getting close. Seems to be a good replacement if you can't find any wintergreen. Between my hard parts already, and the used ones on the way, I should be set.

I didn't get any pictures because it was dark once I got it on there, but you can in fact make a homemade duct using the 1034 duct and some 1.5 '' ID coolant hosing (auto parts store), along with a 1.5'' circular clamp. Just cut a section of hosing about 3x the length of the carburetor intakes (maybe 3/4''?) and wedge into 1034 duct. Then place circular clamp over intake, and put the 1034 duct as normal into air box. Lock the hosing over the intake with clamp over hosing and intake, and then tighten down. Depending on how thick your rubber hosing is, you may need to use some tape to thicken up part of it to wedge it into the 1034 duct. I'll post a picture of the contraption separated and together once I go back out to my bike.

Did the radiator hose fit correctly? i suggested the rubber donut method to someone on another forum a while ago, and he used 2 donuts per carb & from his reply the installation was easy & was pretty much as I had envisioned. I would use ss worm gear clamps.
Here's his reply:

Well, I didn't have the right size intake tubing laying around, so i bought some radiator hose and it worked great! I had to buy two different sizes to get them big enough but it was pretty easy. I cut about 1" rings out of each size hose, stacked them, slid them on to the carbs and then installed the -1032 inlet ducts. They fit perfectly i used pipe clamps as well, but i don't think they are necessary as everything fit so nicely. ...

It fit more or less. I bought 1.5'' ID reinforced flexible rubber radiator hosing with the waves in it, which makes it just able to fit inside the 1032 ducts. Like I said, I'd recommend a bit of tape (maybe electrical?) around the hosing to better wedge the hosing in and create a better seal, but it definitely works in a pinch. I'm going out to try a pre-made piping coupler (rubber) from Home Depot, but will upload a picture of the radiator hosing later today.

I'm thinking about ordering some of these silicone radiator adapters halfway down this page too (2'' to 1.5''), to see if that wouldn't make a good duct. Whatever works, I'd like to find a definitive air duct replacement for all dozen of us CSR guys that we can rely on.

www.acehose.com/silicone-radiator-hoses.htm

Sorry for late reply, but here's a few photos from converting the 14073-1032 ducts to the equivalent size of 14073-1052/3. Just get some hosing from Home Depot with size 1.5'' ID and cut four 1'' sections off. Boil til soft and maliable, and band clamp each section of hose to around your carb intakes. Once cool, install carbs and then put hosing on each carb and check spacing. You will likely need to trim down each hose to about 1/2'' long. Put the 1032 ducts on, with wide opening sliding over the hosing. Band clamp OVER 1032 duct with hosing inside to the carb inlet. All set! (if anybody needs clarification on that end bit, I can get a photo and post later).

This isn't the world's best solution as it's a bear to get on with little space after the carbs are on, but it definitely works, and could be adapted to other airboxes or hosing sizes as well.

I would make donuts from black radiator hose & use properly sized clamps. ss clamp
Instead of worm gear clamps for an even cleaner install, maybe liner clamps, barrel clamps or t-bolt clamps. various clamps ....

This thread discussion drove me off my butt to actually do what I had contemplated for a very-long time...thank you all!
Velocity stacks offered a permanent solution for my application.

Regarding the clamps, I really like this one:

www.normaamericasds.com/sites/default/fi...ct_pdfs/ABA_Safe.pdf

daveo wrote: This thread discussion drove me off my butt to actually do what I had contemplated for a very-long time...thank you all!
Velocity stacks offered a permanent solution for my application.

Regarding the clamps, I really like this one:

www.normaamericasds.com/sites/default/fi...ct_pdfs/ABA_Safe.pdf

Swapped the clamps...

These SS clamps shame those that require a phillips-type head screwdriver. They easily tighten beyond the point where the others become distorted and useless :evil: ...without damaging the rubber!

www.claussstudios.com/index.html

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We give free parts to people who help us add new items to our list!
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Daveo,

You are running Mikunis RS34 with some modified air box?

undiablo wrote: Daveo,

You are running Mikunis RS34 with some modified air box?

Yep...

The stock air box was widened to accommodate Mikuni KRS velocity stacks, and the interior structures restricting air-flow were removed. These alterations were made while preserving the stock appearance, and the functional advantages of the original crankcase ventilation system.

Hi, by any chance, would you be selling the stock air box?