Mikuni BS34 ?'s

Are these what you mean by ducts? www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...650&item=11015-057-K

I feel your pain! my issue has been with a dangerously high idle (it won't go lower then 4000rpm it was up to 6000rpm) from the troubleshooting I've done, I believe my problem is in the throttle cable, or a vac leak.

Have you tested yours for a vac leak? Apparently Rtv copper is a good high heat sealant to use for minor fixes.. It doesn't break down with solvents and will make a gasket where ever you put it.

Also a friend of mine just purchased the exact same year KZ750 L4 that I have, and his has pods, and it seems best kind, I will ask him more about it, because I'm not a huge fan of my air box and messing with it when I need to get to the carbs and whatnot, also the ducts or airbox hoses are a pain in the butt, and the pods do look pretty cool, but I think they may need to be jetted differently? and at $8 a pop it would be worth a try not sure if these are the right diameter though www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-race...n-60mm-12-55760.html

Thanks for the help with the Turns! I now have mine 2-1/8th turns out.

Also this is pretty interesting, for me at least as I am very new to this.

www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_B...Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

Churchy,

Yes, those are what I mean, but thanks to Kawasaki's infinitely UNimaginative designers, they have a slew of bikes, all called "KZ750", and ALL DIFFERENT! B's, G's, K's and the M were all twins; the E, L, F, and N models were all quads. Mine is the M1, aka the CSR750, a twin, so those quad ducts won't work with mine.

I did read a thread over on the Jockey Journal about fabbing homemade ducting using rubber sink drain boots and metal flanges on the airbox, but that's a lot of work for a really irritating system... I'm not married to the idea of airboxes myself, regardless of why the engineers put it there or how it affects emissions or tuning. I, too, don't care for the look, the fuss they cause putting carbs on and off, and the requisite care of fragile (not to mention vintage and hen's-teeth-impossible to find) ducts.

I've put pods on other bikes, including a few with CV carbs, and I KNOW it can be done. It's just the long road between here and there is dreadfully irritating tuning CVs as opposed to slides. Thanks for the link to DCC's pods; not a bad price for cotton mesh! I'm thinking of going with UNI's instead, as I've heard a lot of good about them, so I want to try a pair.

I haven't tested mine for vac leaks, mostly because ever since I cleaned the carbs, I can't get it to stay running long enough to test or tune it! Honest, all I did was CLEAN them. When I got the bike, it ran, sorta- only on full choke, falling on its face off-idle, and machine-gun backfiring (popping) on deceleration. WOT was fine (just about flung me off the bike when it transitioned from falling-down to shooting up!) All symptoms of a clogged primary circuit, so I removed the carbs and cleaned them. Didn't separate them, didn't soak them- just pulled the brass bits, blew out all passages with brake cleaner and compressed air, rodded out all tiny holes with COPPER wire (steel wire, while stiffer, can scratch brass and alloy passages), and put them back together. Never changed so much as a screw turn, even the mix screws went back at the exact 4.5 turns the PO had them set to. Now I can't get the blasted thing to run nearly at all!

I just went out tonight to set the cam chain tension, and hope to go out tomorrow or next night after work to check the compression, although how I'm going to accomplish that with no starter is a mystery... yes, the PO also gifted me with a semi-fragged electrical system. All systems work, except the starter. Glad I don't have to kick-start a hog, my legs can't take even this much! Maybe once it's in better tune it'll start easier.

haha I think I have one of those rubber sink drain boots on my #4 carb to the airbox, A buddy of mine rigged it up... I just ran into a whole new world of hurt though as my clutch isn't shifting or engaging properly now, down to 1 and up to neutral is no problem, but anything more up isn't happening, I've tried different splines and messed with the throttle cable as well which looks fine... my engine is starting up great now though as I was missing a spring on my idle pin to keep it in place so it was slipping back causing it to stall out.... love it when it's little things like springs that fix things, I just hope it's something easy with this shifting problem now...

best of luck with the starting issue, Mine was grounding out on itself from the bolt that transfers the power to the brushes, the bolt was hitting against the starter housing, as the plug that stops that from happening had almost disintegrated over time.