Professionally clean and rebuilt carb..cant start

Here's a dumb question for you guys...what order should the spark plug wires go on the two coils underneath the gas tank?

schmjj01 wrote: ...what order should the spark plug wires go on the two coils underneath the gas tank?

Regardless of which coil is mounted where, the important thing is that the wire from the left pick-up (under the points cover) goes to whichever coil is firing the outside spark plugs #1 and #4.

And that the wire from the right pick-up (under the points cover) goes to whichever coil is firing the inside spark plugs #2 and #3.

Good Fortune!

One coil fires 1 & 4 (the outer cylinders) the other coil fires 2 & 3.

zed1015 wrote: The backfiring out of the intake and exhaust actually sounds like the timing is 180 deg out.
Have you had any work on the electrics whilst waiting for the carbs to be done ?

If you did any electrical work on the advancer, check the position of the rotor.

It sounds like you need a manual, but even if you have a paper one, you should download the ones in my signature.
It's nice for printing out sections and preventing the book from getting messed up with grease.

Also read the valve train warning before taking off the valve cover.

The starting issue can be missing choke flaps. There is a link to Tk22 carb info, and pictures of the flaps so you can check for missing ones.

zed1015 wrote: The backfiring out of the intake and exhaust actually sounds like the timing is 180 deg out.
Have you had any work on the electrics whilst waiting for the carbs to be done ?

First thing I thought of. Everybody has been bit by that one at one time.

i would check for fire just pull a plug and set the electrode on the head and crank it sould have a nice blue spark

Ok so here's an update...checked all four plugs for spark...they had spark...checked ohm resistance on coils and both showed 2.7 ohms. Took off cam chain tensioner and crank case over to check timing. When 1 and 4 were at TDC the sprockets were both timed right with the lines level with block. So I put the cover back on and then reinstalled tensioner. Still I can not get it to run. It has seemed like it backfired out air box twice but that's it. I'm guessing this is way over my head for a repair since I can't seem to get it to do anything.

Is there fuel flowing into the carbs from the petcock? Sometimes the petcock will need to be rebuilt or the fuel filter (if you have one) will need to be replaced. I had some backfiring at the beginning of the season and realized my filter was clogged and was only putting a small amount of fuel in the carbs :lol:

nickleo373 wrote: Is there fuel flowing into the carbs from the petcock? Sometimes the petcock will need to be rebuilt or the fuel filter (if you have one) will need to be replaced. I had some backfiring at the beginning of the season and realized my filter was clogged and was only putting a small amount of fuel in the carbs :lol:

Mine on my 650 was gummed up on the screens and didn't let fuel flow very well. Check both sediment bowl and inlet in tank.

Im almost certain it is getting enough fuel to the carbs. I just pulled the carbs once again and I noticed fuel in the airbox and inside boots on the airbox. Is that a needle issue in the carbs then? This is becoming a real pain the ass. I feel like such an idiot since I cant seem to do anything to make it better. I am never this bad at doing repairs but this is killing me lol

It sounds like maybe your fuel valves are leaking or your float heights aren't correctly set. I would also recommend checking your engine oil before running the bike again. A lot of the time excess gas will find its way into your crankcase and mix with the oil.

Ok I will change the oil again on the morning. I have some 15-40 diesel oil in the garage. It's valvoline and I don't think there is any additives or whatever in it. Will that stuff be ok for now until I can start it or should I just go with the kawasaki oil?