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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 11 Aug 2013 16:07 #600862

  • Jedsdead
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I'm new to working on bikes, but have an 83 KZ550 that I have started on. It did not run for 10 years before I got it. I was able to start the bike after some playing, but would not idle and one cylinder was not working.

I took the carbs off and planned on cleaning them up. I have the Clymers manual and watched several videos for background (although none dealt specifically with my model).

I started with one of the middle carbs. I removed the top cap and spring, and carefully pulled out the diaphragm and needle valve. They were not too dirty. I removed the float bowl cover. Quite a mess on the bottom of the bowl. I removed the float valve and needle...they were fairly clean.

But from here, I'm starting to get a little confused. My carb has three tubes coming up. I removed what I thought was the Main jet and Pilot Jet. Both were fairly clean. But there is a third tube with a brown plastic plug or stopper in the top. Upon going back to the manual (which I will say is not a big help here as it shows a top view but not a bottom one), it looks like I had removed the Primary Main Jet and Secondary Main jet (at least the top of it). But the manual refers to the plug and the pin under it as the Pilot Jet, which the manual simply says to remove. My questions are:

1) is this brown plug actually the top of the pilot jet, or is the manual referring to the pin coming up from the top 'V' of the bowl as the pilot jet (with the external plug)...and if so, what is this brown plug.
2) how do I remove it....just pull hard? I really don't want to wreck anything

I've attached a picture below.




Attachment IMG-20130811-00052.jpg not found




Also, one other silly question...How do I tell if my bike is a KZ550 H1 GPz or H2 GPz...Most of the info I look at refers to H1's...but there's seems to be slight differences to many of the manuals...and a few sites refer to the H2 GPz....is there an easy way to tell. Thanks
1983 KZ550H GPz
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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 11 Aug 2013 16:10 #600863

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one more quick question regarding the picture above...the needle coming up at the bottom of the pic, it goes down directly into the carb body. Any suggestions on how to remove and clean? thx
1983 KZ550H GPz

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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 11 Aug 2013 18:00 #600878

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The needle is not removable.
I believe the H1 or H2 nomenclature refers to the model year.
And it won't be a 650 GPz, they only made GPzs in 550, 750 and 1000/1100? It is a KZ650.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.

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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 11 Aug 2013 20:40 #600903

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thanks for responding Koolaid...I had listed it as a 550, not a 650 (unless I made a mistake somewhere). It seems like they made both the H1 and H2 that year, but I do not know the difference.
1983 KZ550H GPz

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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 11 Aug 2013 20:45 #600905

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KZ550-H1 is the 1982 GpZ550
KZ550-H2 is the 1983 GpZ550.
Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 11 Aug 2013 20:49 #600907

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That "Needle" coming from the carb body you refer to, is the starter jet. It is pressed in, so don't try to remove it. Just squirt carb cleaner and compressed air through it. It will feed the choke plunger, so that needs to be out also.
The little plastic plug over the Pilot jet, yes that needs to come off. Then the Pilot jet is under it. Also look for the Pilot Mixture adjustment screws. They well may still have the factory/ EPA metal cap over them. This cap would need to be drilled carefully, then a sheet metal screw installed grabbed with a pair of pliers to remove. The you can remove the adjustment screws. The Pilot Jet and these screws need to be removed for sure for proper cleaning. There will be small circuits also from these near the butterfly, these are transition circuits. These small circuits are critical for proper carb operation.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 11 Aug 2013 21:36 #600921

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Jedsdead wrote: thanks for responding Koolaid...I had listed it as a 550, not a 650 (unless I made a mistake somewhere). It seems like they made both the H1 and H2 that year, but I do not know the difference.

Oops, my bad. I apologize. Guess I need to get new glasses. :blush:
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.

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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 12 Aug 2013 04:05 #600972

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Thanks Ed..that makes sense.
1983 KZ550H GPz

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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 12 Aug 2013 04:18 #600973

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Motor Head, thanks for the help. I did pull the plug to get to the pilot jet, and did leave the starter needle alone. But the drilling of the mixture screws seems a little out of my league...maybe I can find a video on that somewhere. Strange that the needle is not listed in the Clymers manual.

Just finished the carbs. Many of the jets were partially or fully plugged. Cleaned a lot of old gas from the bowls. So besides the mixture screws, I believe I did a fairly decent job. Certainly will be an improvement.

I am trying to find replacement airbox boots still (have enquired with Z1 and a few other sites online). I have seen where others mentioned that the middle boots were a different number than the outside boots. But when I look on Kawasaki's web site I only find one part number for the 4 (14073). Anyone have luck replacing these boots or any suggestions for getting them back on the carb.

Again thanks to everyone for your help.
1983 KZ550H GPz

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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 12 Aug 2013 09:41 #600987

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Good news! According to Kawasaki.com the boots that connect the airbox to the back of the carbs are still an "Active" part, so any Kawasaki dealer can get them. Patzilla lists them at $12.84 each. Ed

find.partzilla.com/?r=t&q=14073-1073&x=10&y=9

Attachment 00000_2013-08-12.jpg not found

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 12 Aug 2013 10:52 #601003

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Jedsdead wrote: ... drilling of the mixture screws seems a little out of my league....


Here's a video about removing the EPA metal cap that blocks access to the pilot adjuster screw.

The carb pilot adjustment screw may be located on the side, or bottom, or on top of the carb.

The pilot screw on the carbs shown in this video are located on the bottom side of the carb.

Regardless of the location, the removal technique is the same.
Side-located and top-located caps may be removed without removing the carbs from the engine.
But with bottom-located caps -- such as in the video -- the carbs must be removed to access the caps for drilling and removal.

Some aftermarket carb kits include a drill bit and a screw with instructions about removing the EPA mandated caps. It's a "sheet metal" screw, which is better in this application than the "wood" screw used in the video.








May fit a plastic tube over the drill bit allowing a small portion uncovered at the point of the bit to gauge depth of the hole being drilled.





Could also wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit to mark the correct depth, but the plastic tube is more fool-proof.

When gripping the inserted metal screw with pliers, it's okay to tap the pliers
from underneath with a hammer to pull out the cap.

This is but one of several available YouTube videos, and might be the worst one of all. :lol:



Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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83 KZ550 H Carb Questions 12 Aug 2013 11:06 #601007

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CV carb example -- with top-located EPA non-access cap.





Example of side-located EPA non-access cap on a manual slide carb:




Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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