hesitation and difficult to warm up

well after a long and frustrating 3 months my bike is on the road. i fully cleaned the carbs by separating them, soaking them, and using lots of compressed air and carb cleaner to make sure all the passageways were clear. i also put in new jets, needles, o rings, ect.. now she is running okay but i still have a few issues. when the bike is cold it takes a good 10 minutes or so for it to idle on its own without the choke on, and once it is all warmed up it hesitates and chuggs sometimes when im pulling away from a stop at 2-3k rpm. also when ive ridden for a while the idle speed climbs up to around 1.5k rpm instead of the 1k when the bike is warm. any ideas? thanks

Depending on your airbox status and exhaust, it's possible for the bike to be slightly lean. 10 minutes on the choke, on a hot day is not normal, that is lean, but on a cold day, that is in the realm of normal. They were pretty lean from the factory to begin with.

The climbing idle is also an indication of a lean idle.

You may want to adjust the air screws if your bike is not totally stock.

+1 with loudhvx. Sounding a bit lean to me.

okay i will play with air screws a bit, would a lean mixture account for the hesitation as well?

Yeah it would.Also check the timing advancer.It should twist to the right and snap back smooth quickly.If not,it needs a clean and lube.Did you synch the carbs after install?

dan123 wrote: ... fully cleaned the carbs by separating them, soaking them, and using lots of compressed air and carb cleaner to make sure all the passageways were clear... running okay but i still have a few issues. when the bike is cold it takes a good 10 minutes or so for it to idle on its own without the choke on, and once it is all warmed up it hesitates and chuggs sometimes when im pulling away from a stop at 2-3k rpm. also when ive ridden for a while the idle speed climbs up to around 1.5k rpm instead of the 1k when the bike is warm. any ideas? thanks

The reported issues may result from an excessively lean pilot circuit, which might also be caused by a still partially obstructed pilot circuit -- meaning not "as new" clean -- with perhaps some blockage at the port where the air/fuel pilot mixture enters the carb bore.

If the issues persist after adjusting the pilot air screw, and the carbs are re-cleaned, here's a method to assure a clean and clear pilot circuit.





Even if the pilot circuit is "as new" clean, the reported issues could also result from a too low fuel level inside the float bowl.
If not already done, would perform the clear tube test on each carb to determine whether fuel levels are within specs.






Good Fortune!

Those are Air Screws on those carbs. So how far out from lightly seated are you? Might turn them back in 1/4-1/3 turn and see how it responds.
Did you set the wet fuel level in the float bowls using the clear tube test? Always do this to be sure the fuel is at the correct level.

patton- i saw that diagram on another post of yours a while back and i followed it with carb cleaner and compressed air when i was cleaning the carbs. i did the clear tube test as well and adjusted the floats as needed. right now the screws are at about 1 turn out from lightly seated and i will try turning them in a bit more to see what happens. ill get back soon. thanks

If not already done, would inspect pilot adjuster needle tips to assure they are in good condition, and not "grooved" or bent or broken.

Might need new pilot jets, and probably the next size larger pilot jets, which would enrichen the pilot circuit.

What are the current spark plug readings?

Good Fortune!

the air screws are in good shape. what do you mean by spark plug readings? the plugs are are a week old and gaped properly.

With the screws where they are, it sounds as though you may a vacuum leak. Have you checked to make sure there no vacuum leaks?

dan123 wrote: the air screws are in good shape. what do you mean by spark plug readings? the plugs are are a week old and gaped properly.

After running through a tankful of gasoline, the spark plugs should begin to start showing some color on the ends that fit inside the combustion chambers.

When the plugs are removed and inspected, they may appear sooty black or dark tan or lighter tan or whatever, but different than how they appear when brand new.

Should be a color chart around here somewhere to help interpret the "readings."

In the case at hand, a plug reading that indicates lean combustion would support the idea of an overly lean carb pilot circuit (for whatever reason).

Good Fortune!