Cleaned the Carbs, Now bike wont run worth a crap!

Are you putting BS34s on your 650, they dont come with them? If you are and running Them with pods its a pretty tough deal to tell you what to do not knowing anyhting about the engine, elevation etc. First of all its too much carburetion in my opinion. The 82 GPZ750 was the first 750 to use them

no these are not the BS34 these are the Vm's that come stock with the 650. i am at 2882ft elevation. i am running them with pods. 97.5 mains is what it comes stock with, but right now I have 100 mains, and the needle raised with 2 spacers. I have soaked the carbs, cleaned them with wire brushes, and also aired out the carbs with 125 psi air. I cleaned every nook and cranny. Air bleed screws are in 2 turns from insertion, and the color tune shows the engine running with a blue flame, and a little bit of orange flame.

Im sorry I was writing this post to early in AM and put BS34 on it.

Anybody?

If needed:



Wear Eye Protection!

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Ok considering I have cleaned these things 3 times, i will do it again. Per your diagram there patton Could this be the issue, that a jet some where is still clogged? Could it be my ignition system? Before I tore these things down it ran fine. Could I have put my carbs back together in the wrong order? Is that even possible? I am in dire need to get this thing fixed and working so i can get back out on the road...it sucks being down during the summer.

Darkangel wrote: Ok considering I have cleaned these things 3 times, i will do it again. Per your diagram there patton Could this be the issue, that a jet some where is still clogged? Could it be my ignition system? Before I tore these things down it ran fine. Could I have put my carbs back together in the wrong order? Is that even possible? I am in dire need to get this thing fixed and working so i can get back out on the road...it sucks being down during the summer.

If not already done, would also perform the clear tube test to assure fuel levels being within specs.



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If doubtful as to ignition, would use strobe-type timing light to assure correct ignition timing, and function of the automatic advancer.

Could verify spark quality by removing plugs and watch for fat blue spark while spinning over the engine with plug base grounded against the engine.

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Ok tested the spark, and fat blue is what it is not. it is a spark never less, but not fat. i heard the advancer being the problem to the whole up and running, and when you hit the throttle it dies. But I am just not sure....i will be sure to all that you have recommended. Anything else that I need to test for or look for?

In diagnosing the cause of a weak spark, would first measure the voltage actually being received at the coil with ignition switch in the ON position (engine not running).

Compare above voltage with voltage measured between the battery posts.

Ideally, the two voltage measurements should be the same. But typically there's slightly less voltage at the coil.

What are these voltage measurements?

patton...everything is working good on the ignition side. i've got the carbs kinda tuned in. Right now it's running on 97.5 Mains, with 3 spacers on the needles. and air/fuel mix jet all the way in. i am still having problems. Mainly my number 3 cylinder is popping and backing firing? Also when num 3 plug is off she runs better and throttle response is better. Right now still if i just hit the throttle she dies, if i slowly let on the throttle she will slowing pick up speed.. is this a to much air not enough fuel type problem or what?

anyone?

Back fire through carb might be caused by failure of intake valve to completely seal (for whatever reason).
Would assure valve clearances are within specs.
A leak-down test would help diagnose valve seating issues.

Popping from exhaust might be caused by too lean pilot circuit, or vacuum leak.

Would also assure correct ignition timing and advancer function.

Would also test run without any spacers on the jet needles.

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