KZ 1000 Classic Fuel Pump question

I am trying to figure out if this pump is working or not. How hard does it pump the fuel out? And is it a constant flow? Or just surges? Ive tested 3 and none of the 3 have impressed me with the flow......
Any help?
Later,
Kenny

If it's any good, 33 PSI at idle, and 35 PSI when running the engine above idle.

Fuel Pumps & Regulators
www.fuel-pumps.net/gsl393.html
www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/FuelPumps.asp

Fuel Injection Service
www.witchhunter.com
www.injectorrx.com/services.html
www.injector-rehab.com/

And:


1980 KZ 1000 G1 (Z1 Classic)
I took this from the www.kzrider website.

below is a description with autos and part numbers for this throttle switch. ONLY COST $80.

This little switch has *profound* affects on the usability of the bike. Only 1 side of the 2-pole switch was intermittently bad, and it basically made the bike UNUSABLE.

I found the switch today at O'Reilly Auto Parts store here in Silicon Valley -- they used the matching autos to look it up in the O'Reilly computer in the store (using 'Kawasaki' or the Kaw part number was *not* useful, it had to be a car with the year/model or a part number for the switch).

The local O'Reilly store today looked it up for the 1979 Datsun 280zx and they HAD ONE IN STOCK. Put it on the bike, I'm gone on a 45-minute ride around the Valley!
NARY A HICKUP. Bike is fiiiiiine.

So for anyone else with this one-year-only Kz1000 "Z1 Classic", here are a few ways to find this switch:

1) 1979 Datsun 280zx "Throttle Valve Switch"

2) 1980 Datsun 200sx, find it at
Remartautoparts.com, with Remart part # TH114

3) "BECK ARNLEY 158-0492 Fuel Injector Throttle Switch" (NOTE: the 158-0492 is a 'master' part number apparently that most Auto parts stores can use to find all the vendors of this switch)

4) 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo "Throttle Position Sensor",
the part is mfg. by 'Nile'

If I were you, I'd buy one to have on hand if your bike acts up like this rider's did.

Thanks folks! I have it on the bench and hooked up to a fuel tank that recirculates the fuel back into the tank. this one doesnt pump a constant steady stream. the previous one did the same. I had read those #'s in the manual and thought that it should pump constantly. Right?
Later,
Kenny

an electric fuel pump should pump untill it reaches the pressure its regulated to,is the pump getting hot?

Wolfpaak wrote: I am trying to figure out if this pump is working or not. How hard does it pump the fuel out? And is it a constant flow? Or just surges? Ive tested 3 and none of the 3 have impressed me with the flow......
Any help?
Later,
Kenny

Kawasaki DFI "Jacs" pumps are not high pressure compared to todays' 90 psi pumps. Like MFolks detailed, Kawi pumps only put out about 35 psi max. When you turn your key on you should hear the relays and the pump cycle for about 5 seconds then shut off. You should also hear some fuel bubbling inside your fuel tank (this is the fuel being pumped back into your fuel tank via the return line). If you are questioning the volume of fuel look inside the fuel pump inlet and you will see a small screened insert. This insert could be clooged with debris (espacially if the fuel tank has internal rust).

You would need to Tee into the fuel line, pump out put hose to fuel rail before regulator. Then you will get the "Regulated" fuel pressure. That is the specs Mfolks gave you. The pump can be "Dead Headed", out put line blocked to show max pressure. Those pumps are capable of making 80 psi.
If you have delivery problem, a pressure gauge will find it. At higher throttle/ RPM the gauge would drop down if it is not being supplied by the pump.

Motor Head wrote: You would need to Tee into the fuel line, pump out put hose to fuel rail before regulator. Then you will get the "Regulated" fuel pressure. That is the specs Mfolks gave you. The pump can be "Dead Headed", out put line blocked to show max pressure. Those pumps are capable of making 80 psi.
If you have delivery problem, a pressure gauge will find it. At higher throttle/ RPM the gauge would drop down if it is not being supplied by the pump.

With this suggestion all's you would need to do is disconnect the return line junction at the fuel tank, and plug the line with a bolt. I'm not sure however if fuel can flow backwards out the check valve that threaded into the fuel tank so be advised..

If the one way return valve screwed into the tank is clogged, the bike will run rich.

MFolks wrote: If the one way return valve screwed into the tank is clogged, the bike will run rich.

If that valve is clogged you will also experiance an anoying miss / stutter in around 2000 to 3000 rpm. STICK A BLUNT OBJECT INTO THE INLET OF THE CHECK VALVE TO INSURE YOU FEEL THE SPRING INSIDE PUSH BACK...OR.... SOAK IN SEA FOAM AND TAP IT FREE IF IT'S STUCK FROM RUST.

Steve

Thanks, MFolks/man-of-war that valve is brand new. It was missing when we got the bike.
To update, I bought a pump that works from Redline cycle, good guy to deal with,VERY helpful. Got it all back together but still wont run. Sprayed starting fluid into the spark plug holes and it ran off that for a few seconds. so now I will be looking into the fuel rail and injectors....Any other suggestions/tips?
THANKS TONS!
Later,
Kenny

Motor Head wrote: You would need to Tee into the fuel line, pump out put hose to fuel rail before regulator. Then you will get the "Regulated" fuel pressure. That is the specs Mfolks gave you. The pump can be "Dead Headed", out put line blocked to show max pressure. Those pumps are capable of making 80 psi.
If you have delivery problem, a pressure gauge will find it. At higher throttle/ RPM the gauge would drop down if it is not being supplied by the pump.

Thanks for this tip!
as I will have to build this setup, what kind of gauge should I buy? are they specific for fuel? or will ant pressure gauge work?
Thanks!
Later,
Kenny