Rev/blip throttle, it stays at that RPM

I drilled the caps off, adjusted the screws, not quite as much afterfire which is cool. I tried lubing the adjust, and it seemed that yesterday it took care of the problem. but today I was riding to work and it started to do the same thing with the rpms hanging up.

So I tried lubing again, but it didn't seem to help. I bought intake ducts from an 82CSR and put them on with some rubber couplers, so those could be leaking, but I've sprayed all up and down them and can't find any leaks.

I'm tempted to just go to pods and build some sheet metal shields to protect against wind gusts. Uggggggghhhhh.

I understand that if you cannot make it work well with the standard Air Box it is not easier with Pods... but no personal experience with the conversion to back this up.

Best of success,
Bill

T-shoot pretty much (universal) for any carb....

This zipped file covers pretty much everything you need to know regarding carb theory, operations, JETTING, trouble shooting and extremely important Spark Plug reading....

Go here and download...
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=461&Itemid=108

Bike Runs On or Won't Idle Down When Throttle is Chopped
Idle set too high
Air leak in intake or engine
Pilot too rich (when bike is hot)

Bike Wont Start When Cold Temp Outside:
Pilot jet too lean
Air filter over-oiled
Motor oil too thick for temperature

Bike Sputters / Wont Clean Out at High RPM:
Main jet too rich
Air filter over-oiled
Spark plug has debris on electrode

Bike Coughs & Stalls in Slow Turns:
Pilot jet too lean
Idle set too low
Valves set too tight

Bike Hesitates or Bogs Over Deep Whoops or G-Outs:
Float level too low
Carb vent tubes blocked
Main jet splash shield not installed
Float level too high, gas is trapped in vent tunes

Bike Starts But Wont Take Throttle Without Sputtering:
Pilot jet too rich
Water in fuel
Debris in main jet

Bike Suddenly Starts Sputtering / Gas Flows from Vent Tubes:
Stuck float check valve
Debris in gas or carb

Bike Runs Hot / Feels Slow & Flat on Straights:
Main jet too lean
Fuel octane too low, causing detonation

Bike Coughs & Stalls When Throttle is Whacked Open:
Needle too lean
Slide cutaway too lean
Pumper circuit blocked or too lean

TeK9iNe wrote:

...Did you check the advancer? Take off timing cover (2 small bolts on right side of engine crank), and give the advancer (the shaft piece pointy thing in between the 2 contact points) a twist. You'll see the springs expand/contract. It should have a good medium tension, and always return right to tight shut, even from a very small amount of twist and max twist....

A sticking advancer could cause the reported problem by failing to return the ignition timing to idle position at closed throttle.

Good Luck!

Ugh. Alright, so I'm positive there are no leaks at the carb holders, or the nipples that are on them because two are plugged and two have brand new vacuum lines for the air injection system.

Would leaks on the intake side/intake ducts really cause a hanging high idle? Why would it do that? Isn't the air getting metered through the carb anyway?

Air leaks will cause a higher idle. When you raise your idle on any machine it goes higher because you have given it more air. Just like when you give it gas it goes higher because you are opening the butterflys or slide and giving it more air.

Yeah, but isn't the air on the intake getting metered ie restricted because the valve is back down to idle. Why would it matter if the intake duct was there in the first place? The slide valves/butterflies are back at idle. How could leaky intake ducts cause a hanging idle?

redwood wrote:

Yeah, but isn't the air on the intake getting metered ie restricted because the valve is back down to idle. Why would it matter if the intake duct was there in the first place? The slide valves/butterflies are back at idle. How could leaky intake ducts cause a hanging idle?

the fuel and air mixture is decided in the carb and is sent through boots to intake valve...leaky/cracked boots introduce more air to an already established and hopefully correct mixture, making what hits the intake valve overly lean.......the concept is basically the same whether at idle or 1/3, 1/2,3/4,full throttle.......

That makes sense if AFTER the carb there are leaks, but not before. I'm taking about the intake ducts that go from the AIRBOX to the carb. How could those leaking cause a hanging idle? The mixture is being metered in the carb like you said, how could a leak BEFORE the carb cause this problem?

A leak before or after the carb adds a significant amount of air to the mixture at low throttle inputs (when vacuum is at its highest).

No need to argue the theory and the reason, it just does! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Basically, EVERYTHING must be perfectly air tight, from the air filtration/airbox snorkel tip, to the exhaust end tip, in order for things to work at optimum potential.
Leaks anywhere in the entire system can cause detrimental changes to torque/hp delivery curve.

Cheers!



The thing to remember is that your carbs are not AUTO metering the fuel. They can only deliver a specific amount of fuel for each circuit activated (throttle input). If you add more air from anywhere, the carb does not compensate, and thus goes lean.

DONT USE PODS. Unless you are ready to have a non-running bike, and lots of $$$ spent re-jetting the whole carb system.