Ready to pull my hair out!

Ok ok. I'm about to scream here. I replaced the carb boots to the engine. I keep having this throttle problem. the bike wants to rev VERY high with a slow drop to idle I've checked the cable routing,the ol' oil test for air leaks,the petcock,the choke, you name it.. Any suggestions??

You'll have to provide us some more info such as which bike, which carbs, after market exhaust & pods vs. stock, have you worked/re-built the carbs themselves etc....

Sticking floats?
Gummed up jets?

Once warmed up, stop/start motor, does it still rev high on start up?

Example:
The choke system is used to start cold engines. Since the fuel in a cold engine is sticking to the cylinder walls due to condensation, the mixture is too lean for the engine to start. The choke system will add fuel to the engine to compensate for the fuel that is stuck to the cylinder walls. Once the engine is warmed up, condensation is not a problem, and the choke is not needed.

OMR

Advancer unit might be sticking.

Good Luck!

it is lean on the pilot circuit if it has fuel screws(located on engine side) try turning them out 1/2 turn at a time. if it has air screws (airbox side of carb) turn them in 1/2 turn at a time either way the pilots need to be richened up. that is why it wont return to idle properly.also make double sure all the screws are even ly out from the seated position 1 1/4-1/2 is standard on most carbs try this and see if the problem gets better.

I was kinda thinking you had an air leak on your intake boots. Between the carb bodies and the head itself, spray some carbcleaner around the mating surfaces an listen for an increase in revs. I had a similar problem once that was resolved my the use if high temp sillycone which gave me a good seal between the head and the boots. good luck .

MAC

Sorry about that Old man rock and fellows!
Its an 80-750E running pods and a kerker header and canister.
Was running fine . I didnt explain what the problem is very well. the bike cranks fine and will idle all day as long if I dont blip the throttle.It's when I do that it takes a good while for it to fall back to idle. I've checked the throttle cable to be sure there are no hang ups, checked the boots for leaks as you fellows suggested. Even had the silicon on the bases like was suggested ,when I installed them. Thought it might be a sticking slide or to on these CV carbs .
Or that one or more of the diaphrams in them might have gotten torn.. nope. Bike will crank and idel fine , till you bump the throttle ... I've lubed the cable, checked it routing, checked the linkage to the carbs fron the cable.. Any suggestions???

A bit off topic, but you shouldn't use silicone on anything that's subjected to fuel or fuel fumes. The fuel will destroy the sealer quickly. Besides, new carb boots don't need any sealant to seal properly. They are new after all.

Have you checked to see if one header does not heat up as fast or heat at all? It might point you at a carb.

When did it start doing this? Was it after pods were installed?

+1 for checking your air screw settings. If the air screws are not all equal it can cause erratic idling. Also might check how close the carbs are synchronized and ensure the pilot jets and pilot passages in the carbs are nice and clean.

I have found on some other types of engines that when the idle circuit fuel settings aren't right, you have to turn the idle speed setting screw in higher (throttles open more). Then when you try to decelerate an engine in that condition, it wants to continue to rev. They will idle normally when you first start the engine, then once you throttle up they will not slow back down. HTH.

I'm having the same problem! It started happening after I put on a new old fuel tank. Also, If I leave the petcock open when the motor is off it starts spilling fuel from the #1 carb. The tank was coated and I use a inline filter but I'm wondering if some particle got through the filter and is causing the problem. The filter is new and there is already a lot of crap in it that I can see. Scott

SSLAYER:
I think you answered your own question. If you have a new filter and it quickly builds up junk you can see then your tank or petcock is crappy. (Crappy= tech term) Remove tank, petcock. Remove petcock bowl clean filter. Clean tank with white vinegar. Usually won't hurt paint. Usually. Flush with water and then dry out, then rinse with vinegar again and put in gas right away or flash rust will set up quickly. At least that's how I'd do it. You might get a couple weird smells with the first tank of gas and the occasional "you want fries with that?" comment but everything should be fine. Now if you get big flakes of rust coming out you might want to look into a tank liner product after de-scaling. I have used both Kreem and Red Kote with no bad effects. You do have to follow their directions tho. GLuck!