Hard Cold Srart

Since you have a kickstarter, try that, if you can.

You probably won't have a starter or a battery for too long if you keep on it for 30-40secs.

I couldn't (and wouldn't try) to start my old KZ400 in the cold with the starter. Voltage drop (because of starter cranking) not only means that the starter may not spin at full speed, but also that the coils may not power up fully. All that old wiring tends to deteriote a bit with old age. If you're bike is in good tune, it should start 2-3 kicks no matter what the weather (if it has been started in the last two or three days, anyway).

First thing to do is a full tuneup
-Points/condensor
-Spark plugs
-Spark plug wires and caps (if they are old)
-Valves
-Carburator cleaning (if the carbs have not been stored properly)
-A careful overview of carburator FUNCTION (not jetting) See comments below
-Carburator balance
-Pilot screw(This should be the last thing you right before you are done with the tuneup) See comments below


When all thats done, I'm willing to bet she should start up really good! (Mine did in any weather)
If that doesn't work, I would go ahead and try the next size pilot jet.


Also, if you notice that you have to change spark plugs frequently, look into doing the WG coil mod... It should be in our filebase.

Does putting in new plugs help?
NBK

Hey if you can work on Corvairs.. :sick: Your KZ will be a cinch .. I have had the pleasure of working on that old chevy in the 80's..interesting engine or is it just " unsafe at any speed " to coin Naders Raders Cold Start ? Listen to WG .. all bow in his presence

Corvairs were cool, weren’t they? The engine had more in common with an aircraft power plant then anything automotive. Ralf Nader regretted his lambasting of the car and admitted years later that he was over-zealous. There was a design flaw with the rear wheel bearings, which was corrected in 1963. (Under certain conditions the rear wheel could actually come off while cornering.) Once that was fixed, there were never any other significant mechanical flaws found unless you count oil leaks. With an independent suspension system borrowed from the “Vette and an optional 180HP turbocharged “Spider” model, the car was a hoot to drive. I absolutely loved ‘um.

Now down to business - I’ve put almost 10000 miles on this bike and I think I may have used the kick-starter once. It never occurred to me that it might start easier by kicking it over as opposed to using the electric but it makes sense now that you mention it. I’ll give it a try.

By the way the 30 or 40 second crank time I mentioned isn’t one long interval. I’ll turn the engine over for 3 or 4 seconds then pause. It takes 30 or 40 seconds of doing that before the engine hits. A good friend of mine who is a long time Harley guy warned me of the dangers of continuous cranking. I appreciate the advice though Newbikekiller. If someone hadn’t warned me, I would have fried the starter long ago.

You asked if putting in new plugs helps. I’ve changed plugs twice since I’ve had the bike and that was just a matter of routine. This motorcycle had only 5000 miles on it when I got it in 04 so it’s very much “like new.” (Or was like new.) The plugs looked good when I changed them. To answer your question, no. I couldn’t tell any difference in starting one way or the other.

I do believe a hotter spark would help. To that end I’ve located a complete used electronic ignition system from a 440. Will also upgrade to a better coil as has been suggested. I’m optimistic that this along with the carb calibrations per WiredG will solve the problem. All I need to do now is get the parts and do the deed. (Famous last words…)


I have a padded sissy bar, a replacement halogen headlight, and an ignition system from a 440 all due to arrive this week. Weather and wife permitting, this time next week I should be cruising. Will try to get a picture posted.

Thanks again for the info!!