Reinstalling carbs

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23 Jun 2008 06:44 #221651 by wiredgeorge
Replied by wiredgeorge on topic Reinstalling carbs
The hose that goes to the petcock is connected at the carburetor side to a vacuum fitting. IF any of the vacuum fittings is not capped, plugged or connected properly to what it is supposed to be, the idle will race. What are the hoses from 1&4 that go to a tee connected to now? Is the vacuum fitting that has no hose connected capped with a vacuum cap? Put the tank on or plug the hose that goes to the petcock when doing your testing/tuning.

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!

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23 Jun 2008 06:48 - 23 Jun 2008 06:51 #221654 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Reinstalling carbs
stallau wrote:

...ran it without the tank on since there was gas in the carbs and if I put my finger over the vacuum tube that would go to the petcock that would change the increase the idle speed....


If this means the tube between the vacuum port petcock was removed from the petcock allowing outside air to be sucked into the carb vacuum port -- this would create a large air leak preventing low idle rpm and cause the engine to race (same as any other typical air leak).

When test running the engine without connecting the vacuum tube to the vacuum operated petcock, the carb vacuum port nipple should be capped (like the others) so as to prevent creating a large air leak through the uncapped vacuum port. Or put a plug inside the unattached vacuum tube which usually fits onto the vacuum petcock.

With the vacuum port plugged, is the idle rpm okay, or is it still way too high?

Good Luck! :)

Oops -- posted before noticing wg already has this well covered. :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 23 Jun 2008 06:51 by Patton.

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25 Jun 2008 13:39 #222128 by stallau
Replied by stallau on topic Reinstalling carbs
Update - just want to see if I'm correct in my next course of action

1) I'm focusing on the two tubes that connect to the T and then run forward along the from to I'm assuming emissions of something of the sort.
2) I checked the hoses and the ends were starting to crack inside of the harder housing. I didn't have any extra hose so I ran some electrical tape around the outside to keep the tip tighter
3) It now starts easier, runs a little high for a standard idle and then starts to accelerate again

Assumption - Hoses need to go and also get a bunch of the clips for he end of the hose (most are missing)

One thing I did notice is that the volume seems to be higher. Could that also just be from the fact it's running at a high speed without the drivetrain engaged?

Trying to be systematic in troubleshooting since I work on PC's not bikes.

Thanks

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