where did the gas go?

The adapter plates are all the same except for the offset of the mounting holes. Measure the offset on your tank between the mounting bolts. On my KZ1000E1, the offset is 44mm which is pretty common but my poor failing memory tells me your offset will be different. You can also get either a Pingel petcock which are one of the best or a Drag Specialties... www.z1enterprises.com sells both. I use the Drag Specialties (or whatever they are called as they are also sold by Custom Chrome, etc) that screw into the adapter plate. The ones I use are about $20 as memory serves. You can go to jpcycles.com and buy ALL the internals to rebuild one of these petcocks even though they are inexpensive and they seem to flow gas adequately for any carb set up.

with my current setup (leaky petcock and inline needle valve. should i plug the vacuum to the petcock and disconnect the line?

I don't understand what you mean by an inline needle valve. If you have a fuel shut off between the petcock and carburetor assembly, disconnect the vacuum, put a 7/32" vacuum cap on the vacuum fitting that had been used and operate the bike in PRI position and when you park, shut the inline shut off valve OFF.

bubba_d wrote:

with my current setup (leaky petcock and inline needle valve. should i plug the vacuum to the petcock and disconnect the line?

Yes, put a cap on that port on the #2 carb or else it'll run very lean and cause damage. The 44mm plate and the cheap chrome petcock sold by Z1 Enterprises will work well. I've done three bikes with that setup. Don't screw the petcock into the plate until you actually install it. The metal will gall and damage the threads. Don't ask how I know... :pinch: Use teflon tape or pipe sealer on the threads.

Once you install the manual petcock you will no longer need an inline valve between it and the carbs. The carb float needle valves are still necessary.

To install the manual petcock, you will need to file some metal away so the round screen can fit. Doing so is rather simple, just mark the area with a permanent marker using the supplied gasket as a guide and then have at it. I have found that the petcock won't screw far enough into the adapter plate to contact the tank so the hole just needs to be large enough clear the screen.

Since the cheap manual petcock exits to the rear, some experimentation with fuel line routing will be needed. I've been able make it work with the stock airbox and a fuel filter inline with gentle bends. I have not witnessed any fuel starvation on any of the three bikes I've done.