TOPIC:

I have a Lincoln SP175 with the aluminum kit. It works, but I'd rather a spool gun. I run straight argon so no need for 2 tanks. I would highly recommend a 220 welder. I've used a handful of 110's and they just seem to be limited to very light work.

While I like Lincoln, I'd recommend a Miller (forget the model) but it's a small 220 with spoolgun capabilities.

My Lincoln uses a plastic insert in the lead, but it's still a PITA doing aluminum.

Kidkawie wrote: I have a Lincoln SP175 with the aluminum kit. It works, but I'd rather a spool gun. I run straight argon so no need for 2 tanks. I would highly recommend a 220 welder. I've used a handful of 110's and they just seem to be limited to very light work.

While I like Lincoln, I'd recommend a Miller (forget the model) but it's a small 220 with spoolgun capabilities.

My Lincoln uses a plastic insert in the lead, but it's still a PITA doing aluminum.

How well does your welder handle aluminum? Ive never tried with a mig. Did you get good results?

jydog wrote:

Kidkawie wrote: I have a Lincoln SP175 with the aluminum kit. It works, but I'd rather a spool gun. I run straight argon so no need for 2 tanks. I would highly recommend a 220 welder. I've used a handful of 110's and they just seem to be limited to very light work.

While I like Lincoln, I'd recommend a Miller (forget the model) but it's a small 220 with spoolgun capabilities.

My Lincoln uses a plastic insert in the lead, but it's still a PITA doing aluminum.

How well does your welder handle aluminum? Ive never tried with a mig. Did you get good results?

It's not too bad, but there are some caveats.

Running aluminum wire through a lead is like trying to push a chain from the last link. You need to keep the lead relatively straight and find the right pressure for the feed wheels. Too much pressure and it binds the wire up, too little and it wont feed. I aim the nozzle to the floor, it's at a good setting once I feel slight push back from the wire.

The nylon sleeve will eventually wear and need replacing. I'm lazy and run the steel through it as well. If you don't do alot of aluminum you can get away with it. But you're better off with a spoolgun. A shorter lead would work pretty good, something like 3-4 feet.

Kidkawie: What size of aluminum wire are you using? I have the Lincoln Migpak 180(?) with 100% argon, and also use the Teflon insert. First time I tried, I had a b***h of a time; wire constantly breaking/bunching up. Went to a welding distributor who suggested going up to a .030 wire (from .025). Solved the problem, fixed up an old boat without a single hitch.

I'm sure you have the grooved rollers installed when you run the alu wire?

Yeah, I'm using .030 aluminum. My machine is on a cart that tilts the back of the welder down. This causes a sharper angle the lead has to make coming out of the machine, so I made a short (12") support for the lead. Basically just a piece of scrap zip tied to the lead to keep it from bending. When I weld aluminum I have the lead as straight as possible. I also slightly bent the end of the lead in a vice.

When planets align and the seas part and the machine is pushing the aluminum good, it welds great.

I would save your money for the Hobart 140. The stinger is short enough you can weld aluminum with it. It's a excellent welder for the $.

I weld and fabricate at work. We have a water cooled miller tig welder, a old millermatic 250, and a Hobart 140. We have several other welders but those are the ones that get used because they are the best.

Personally I had a Lincoln 110 cracker box for 15 years and it was a great starter welder. Now I have a ironman230 and am very pleased with its performance.

For aluminum the spoolgun is the way to go. Our millermatic250 at work is set up with a spoolgun and if you can mig weld well you can spoolgun aluminum. It's just faster.

Save for the Hobart or buy a name brand off CL.