TOPIC:

DoubleDub wrote:

Why used motor oil? Just curious.

Not a good idea, it's still to slippery to use for cutting.

I tried that on my lathe one time, discovered real fast that it didn't work

Unsalted lard works real well though, and if you get it hot it smells like frying bacon

Sulferized cutting oil is readily available, it's used for threading pipe. But it really stinks!

I'm with Steell on this one....

Crisco lard (white cooking crap in a can) works wonders...

We use it all the time for tapping threaded fine thread metric holes in SS plates at work... Truly works well...
Don;t ask me why...

I';m sure Otto the mad chemist can explain....

Thanks guys. That all really helps. I had been using motor oil, which obviously was the wrong choice. I will get some cutting fluid or use some Crisco (pretty sure I have some) and see if it helps after degreasing the rod. I was actually thinking the oil might have been causing a loss of friction at the vice which was making things harder than they should have been.

I'll drop out some pics once I get a little more progress. It feels good to actually try to make something to fix my bike for once rather than just swapping out parts.

DoubleDub wrote:

Why used motor oil? Just curious.

I think that the theory is it contains some amount of sulphur, and it needs to be used so that the viscosity is broken down.

I would only use the motor oil in a pinch. I agree that the dark sulphur oil is best.

Honestly, though, the differences are mostly in the quality of the finished thread. Your primary concern is getting the thread actually cut in the first place. Don't worry too much about the finish at this point.

3 in 1 oil is good in a pinch. But like everyone else said: cheap die and SS rod won't cut it....literally.

Well, you guys rock. Crisco, well, it cuts like butter.

I looked at the packaging (definitely a cheap die set) but it doesn't say Carbon, just "Heavy Duty Alloy Steel". Maybe it's even cheaper than Carbon steel?

Anyways, since it was cheap and I only have a few threads to cut I don't care as long as I get the thing done.

Thanks for the help!

Yeah, the Heavy Duty Alloy Steel set is the better of the two that Harbor Frieght has. I have the Carbon Steel set that I just use to chase out holes, bolts and screws before I re-assemble.

Good to know, Link. Thanks!

So I finished the rod this afternoon - not sure that I'm the best at cutting threads, but the nuts threaded like they should. Got the rod installed and it appears to work but still needs a bit of adjustment.

I threaded the back side quite a bit to allow for two nuts pressed against each other with a lock nut to act as the spring stop (probably extreme overkill).

The rod was 36" of 6mm stainless from McMaster Carr. Less that $13 shipped from Chicago to me and delivered Monday afternoon (ordered Saturday morning) by UPS.

Spent another $5 or so on hardware, sure can't be a $17 brake rod considering the stainless replica is over $40.

Here's pics of it being made:










Pics of the rod installed:

DoubleDub wrote:

...

Instead of the extended threading, could the brake arm lever be repositioned on its shaft?

If not already done, may be time to inspect rear brake shoes.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

Instead of the extended threading, could the brake arm lever be repositioned on its shaft?

If not already done, may be time to inspect rear brake shoes.

Good Fortune!

Agreed - that is part of the adjustment required.

The extended threading is actually on the other side of the brake lever to allow for the spring stop (can be seen on the right next to the exhaust). Once properly adjusted there shouldn't be as much threading exiting the rear of the brake lever.

I also need to verify the brake shoes as I have also been warned about the original shoes having glue that fails over time, and I'm not certain of the age of these shoes.

Thanks for the input!

Yeah, I'd move that brake arm back a bit.

Awesome - thanks! I was trying to find a picture to reference.