TOPIC:

Of course everybody on here will tell you to get a hand impact screwdriver. I own 2 personally. but they arent good if the screw is already loose and you are just bending the damn stripped, rusted, crossthreaded, SOB still recessed in your babys guts.
So here is my 2 cents...
standard scouring powder, the kind without bleach in it, bon ami or similar, is best since chlorine attacks lots of kinds of metal. Slightly dampen the tip of the screw driver tip and coat liberally with the powder. Instant traction. Some places sell a product called screw medic, it also works pretty well.
My personal favorite is a little dab of coarse or medium grade valve grinding compound on the driver tip. Careful though, I have broken lots of tips off in screws this way, particularly snap-on and mac brand, they seem much harder and more brittle. And when you get one to bite hard enuf to break the tip off, the little piece can be really hard to extract, and forget drilling it out.

i just use a hammer and a torch.

wargoth wrote:

Of course everybody on here will tell you to get a hand impact screwdriver. I own 2 personally. but they arent good if the screw is already loose and you are just bending the damn stripped, rusted, crossthreaded, SOB still recessed in your babys guts.
So here is my 2 cents...
standard scouring powder, the kind without bleach in it, bon ami or similar, is best since chlorine attacks lots of kinds of metal. Slightly dampen the tip of the screw driver tip and coat liberally with the powder. Instant traction. Some places sell a product called screw medic, it also works pretty well.
My personal favorite is a little dab of coarse or medium grade valve grinding compound on the driver tip. Careful though, I have broken lots of tips off in screws this way, particularly snap-on and mac brand, they seem much harder and more brittle. And when you get one to bite hard enuf to break the tip off, the little piece can be really hard to extract, and forget drilling it out.

Wow, you can learn something new everyday!
I like the wet cleanser idea!

i forgot to add vaseline is the secret weapon.

Drill and Tap, You may have to bore some bigger holes with a re-thread though.

Use good screwdrivers, I prefer either Wiha or Wera, both made in Germany.

Heat it with a torch (propane) and melt beeswax on it so it wicks in. Best penetrating method I've ever seen.

Also forgot to mention, this abrasive method can help with rounded allen-head screws.
If you cant drill straight enough to easy-out a screw, you shouldnt be trusted with a tap and die set. Napa Auto also sells Helicoil thread replacement tools for about $50. I think Fastenal sells 'em for about $35.
Also, when using a screw extractor, drilling DEEP into the threaded protion will relieve the side pressure on the threads leaving room to collapse enough to come out easily. But be careful, dont drill into the base metal.

Good tips, I just bought a Z1 head with 6mm exhaust studs.
1 is broken off flush at the head.
I don't have that small off an easy-out.

Might have to buy something new?

How about them drill-screw extractors Craftsmen sells at Sears?

I have a drill press, so I can get a good hole drilled.

z1kzonly wrote:

Good tips, I just bought a Z1 head with 6mm exhaust studs.
1 is broken off flush at the head.
I don't have that small off an easy-out.

Might have to buy something new?

How about them drill-screw extractors Craftsmen sells at Sears?

I have a drill press, so I can get a good hole drilled.

Could try a reverse drill bit.

Good Fortune!

6mm is about 1/4" so a #2 extractor should do fine. Use a 7/64" drill bit to drill the hole, it might be easier to start with a 3/32" to pilot the hole. You also need to drill deep enough so that the tip of the extractor will not bottom out. If you cannot drill this deep, then trim a little off the tip of the extractor with a grinder.
The left flute "reverse" bit is an excellent idea. Often a stuck fastener will unscrew while drilling. Mac and snap-on sell the bits in a kit, but are really expensive, unless you like the name... Most machine shop and cutting tool suppliers can get the left bits for just a couple of $ each. If you have to special order them, make sure to get split-point "cobalt" bits as they are worth the extra expense, due to their much higher life.
IMO the craftsman drill/extractors are for the home do-it-yourself type and not for any serious industrial use, no matter what they claim.
I have worked on Boeing jet airplanes for many years and have extracted thousands of screws using abnormal methods. I am usually good for creative advice in this area:P

ALSO!! always remove the head of any rounded off fastener before using an easy-out type of extractor to reduce the required removal torque. You cannot drill a broken extractor out with anything short of a $30 drill bit that will break after pentetrating the broken HSS part.

BE CAREFUL