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Shooting for 130-160 hp
- wireman
- Visitor
bore cases to clear sleaves,main cap brace,heavy studs and nuts top-bottem,a really good welded crank,heavy duty 2nd gear to replace the one thats gonna grenade first time that 130 plus hp hooks up really good ,plus any worn parts already in motor,labor for bottem end........theres a lot more involved in building a motor like that if you want it to stay together than just buying a few parts we havent even talked chassis parts yet,and if you are gonna buy the bigblock kit you might as well do a 1327 so you dont have to beat it so hard to make same amount of power;) this 1327 as dynoed at 137hp at back wheel and was still drivable compared to an 1197 making same power:evil:A quick scan of the APE website showed the following prices
SSR1200
$1410.29
1200cc piston kit - with sleeves, K435 cams, sob retainers, tappets, valve springs, cylinder studs.
HIGH PERFORMANCE BRONZE VALVE GUIDES $56.10
oversize stainless steel valves $24.50 EA (x8)
Mikuni RS Flat slide carbs (36mm or 38mm) $715.00
Gasket set ~$80.00
Labor:
Install bronze valve guides and size for valves - labor only - 8 valve head $95.00
Port and valve job 8-valve 850.00
Bore and hone with piston purchase $95.00
Grand total of $3497.39 to get you where you want to go, call it $4000.00 to cover anything I missed.
Seems like it cost $80-$100 per additional hp to build hot rod motors
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- high toned son of a bitch
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Maybe my estimate was high. I am used to racing cars so I am out of touch on bike HP. I figured the bike was around 100 hp now, didn't think it would be to big of a deal to get 35 more or so.
I may just find another 900 or 1000 engine and build it, then sell the shaftie motor complete.
I do have a M90, and I had thought about that. I just wanted to put some more compression in the motor. WIth the aluminum head I should be able to get away with 11:1 on super 93 octane right?
Thanks
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- geerbangr
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1978 KZ 1000
I go by Jason
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