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Shooting for 130-160 hp
- high toned son of a bitch
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What are the downfalls of this engine for building, and what are some things needed to do? I have heard things like "big pin crank" and "smog head". The bike runs great right now, I just need more umph. I am currently running a 4-1 no baffle, my 900 carbs, pods, ignition upgraded.
I am planning on spending around $1000. Don't want a turbo, a little Eaton M90 would be cool but probably unpracticle. Needs to run on 93 octane also.
THanks
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- wireman
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- steell
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And possibly an Eaton M45/M90, but that's if you do all the fab work yourself.
To do it on motor is going to cost more than that.
My opinion anyway
KD9JUR
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- donthekawguy
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Rathdrum Idaho
1971 Kawasaki g3ss
1972 Yamaha R5 350
1965 Suzuki Hillbilly
1964 Yamaha 125
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- Fossil
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My bike is being done in stages - engine was first with a few suspension tweaks and ridden for 2 years like that, this year full suspension and brake swap/upgrade, next year will be paint and cosmetic work. If I did it all at once it would be way over my budget set aside each year for bike shenanigans.
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- hardr0ck68
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- Who put the what in the where?
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love him or hate him, he has got a nice step by step for what you will need to do.....
1977 kz650 c1
bought it because I was told it would never run again...I like to prove people wrong.
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- larrycavan
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There is the top down vs bottom up methods to consider. You want it rock solid...go bottom up - You want it now...go top down.
If all you have to start with is a bone stock motor, then APE's SSR1075 kit should be on your consideration list...there goes nearly $800 but you have something that will make a marked performance improvement and you should be able to get by without welding the crank...for now. If the crank is in good condition, you're not likely going to break it.
You could run that kit with stock, rejetted carbs and exhaust if you had to and still notice a big improvement in performance. You'd not get the most out of it but you definitely would feel a difference.
Another option would be drop in cams. The thing with those is later on down the road, they may be inadequate.
Street porting without cams to complete the airflow may leave you disapointed. At least a drop in cam shold compliment the porting.
Good smoothbore carbs and a pipe will give you a very noticable improvement in performance and compliment big bore, cams & porting when you can afford it. If you got the right deal on the carbs and pipe, you'd have enough left over to freshen up the cylinderhead.
Based on your long term goal for the bike you may want to build the foundation first and have the bottom end work done. You won't feel any big seat of the pants gains from it but you will have it out of the way and not need to tear the entire motor down if you went with the SSR1075 kit later on. It will also be a smooth running engine will minimal vibration.
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- geerbangr
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1978 KZ 1000
I go by Jason
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- wireman
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(key up the soul music)who is the man with the 425 cams ?uh..... geerbanger:whistle: :woohoo:Hey high toned,What do you wanna change your shafty to a chain for ??? You can see what all i've done to my 1100 shafty,the drive shaft system is holding up faithfully . I'm pretty tuff on the old girl so if the shaft system was gonna come aprt i'm sure it would have by now . Hollar if you have any questions . :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
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- wiredgeorge
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To get far over 100 hp, you will need a "big block"... start by pricing a block and piston kit from APE... Then price some headwork or conversion to a head with bigger valves... then price some cams.
$1000 won't get you there...
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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- steell
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I think drive train losses for the shaft are generally assumed to be around 20%?
Some info in the Archives:
First
"Posted by mpowell"
My motor isn't too radical. I have:
29mm smoothbore carbs
mildly ported head with stock valves
anderews 4x cams .430" lift
heavy valve springs and shim under bucket conversion
wiseco 1075 piston kit 10.25:1
welded 900 crank
undercut trans
heavy duty molly cylinder and case studs and head nuts
heavy duty cam chain
breathing out through a Vance & Hines PCO sidewinder
dyna electronics dyna S, coils, wires, 2 step rev limiter and shift minder
This setup makes about 120 RWHP and propelled me to a 10.69 @ 124 mph last year in the 1/4 mile with a bad clutch. It runs real strong and if you build a motor like it you'll be pulling your bike back apart and puting a wider wheel up under it with a slick 'cause a street tire is usless in the first 2 gears.
LINK to Archived thread
Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/11/22 09:19
KD9JUR
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- Pterosaur
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...I think drive train losses for the shaft are generally assumed to be around 20%?
%5 to %8 on average, given a good set of bevels and everything is lubed and working right.
Likewise, a a good chain in peak adjustment can be as high as %98 efficient. Early helicopters tried using long-ass chain setups to run the tail rotors for the same reasons - weight savings and power transfer efficiency - but ran into the same problems that dOOd with the dual-ie Yamaha in the other thread is begging for...
If gettin' ponies to the rear wheel is the issue, though, it's hard to beat a good chain...
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