The clutch cable is harder to lube than any of the other cables. I would first change the cable. You MAY have one that is just gummy from rust and age. Next, there isn't much to a Kaw clutch. The clutch cable pulls on a plastic pivoting worm gear. This gear pivots inwards and pushes a long rod that goes across the engine to the clutch. The long rod has a ball bearing between it and the clutch pusher. First change the cable and pull out the rod that pushes and make sure it isn't bent or has been heavily greased in the past as the grease picks up crud and could make its action bind. If that doesn't do the trick, to take the clutch apart, you need to get a new clutch gasket. If the original phillips screws are still in place, make sure you use a hand impact driver to loosen them. Then remove the screws and scrape off the old gasket from the mating surfaces. There are six 6mm bolts. Remove these. The bolts hold the clutch springs. When the rod pushes the ball bearing that pushes the clutch pusher, the springs provide tension and return the plates closed... To get to the plates, just pull off the pressure plate which is also held on by the six bolts. The plates just pull out and alternate between fiber and steel plate. Behind these is the pusher and if you pull it out, the ball bearing can fall out so keep and eye out for it. The ball bearing can't come out on the cable side. As far as what to look for in an older Kaw for the first time are the correct number of plates, warping of plates and wear. A shop manual will give you the specifics and specs. If you don't have one, a link to the KZ900 Kaw Factory Service Manual has been posted in the past... somebody scanned it and uploaded it just recently.
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
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