Oil Change.. (I know, I know)

I've poured through a ton of the Oil Type discussions, and i understand that asking 10 guys, what/how I’ll get 10 different answers… With that being said, I’m hoping for a little more insight to the theory, and possible recommendations for my situation.

My bike got knocked over and sat that way over night. At the recommendation of one of my bar buddies, I changed the oil. “Just toss some 5w30 in there and you’ll be fine”. I did so (Standard ACE brand 5w30), and my clutch started slipping. 200 miles later, and several hours reading posts, I pop into my local Advanced Auto to pick up some Rotella (as many have recommended here). They’re out and the clerk tells me “Your crazy! Don’t use that stuff” So after a 30 minute dissertation on why I was crazy, I pick up some Valvoline 10w40 (Motorcycle) on his recommendation. Three days later (and 3 rides later), my starter is whirring away, and starting her is a bear, plus when the starter does engage, she’ll buck a bit unless I got her in neutral.

Before I change the oil… again. The nights have been dropping into the 40s, day’s are still 60s. We’re expecting 30s this weekend, but I have my Road Test next week, so I cant put her away just yet. Do I have bigger problems? Does this sound like an oil issue? Since I really don’t know jack about oil, and 5w’s from 15w’s… is there any link or recommended reading I should be looking at? WWJD?

~Jay

I use Castrol Synthetic 5w 50 all year round. When it does get too cold and is put away, I start it every week or 2 to keep the engine free and lubed, prevent carbs gumming up and keep the battery charged. The synthetic flows at low temperatures, and no the clutch does not slip contrary to popular myth.

I'd love to hear what he said about Rotella. I have read quite a bit on the net to help draw my conclusions.

Anyway, a Valvoline "motorcycle" oil should be great for your bike, as long as it does not contain those pesky additives. And I would imagine it does not. I would suppose that your issues are residual related to the previous oil... or something else.

...you said your bike was on its side... I wonder where that oil got to? Maybe the starter clutch is in a bath of oil now due to a bad seal? I don't know, just speculating...

Use the weight recommended for your bike. It is in the owners manual or shop manual, molded on the engine oil fill cap, printed on labels under the seat, etc.

It should probably be 10-40. In the hot summer you can go thicker like 20-50. Rotella is ok at 15-40, it's what I run now. Stay away from any oil that has the "EnergyConserving" pointed circle on it.

The Valvoline should be ok, unless it's contaminated with that 5-30 stuff. (Yeah what biquetoast said)
Bar buddies are good for drinking with, auto shop kids are good for taking your money. The manual is good for what your bike needs.

Post edited by: OKC_Kent, at: 2006/10/10 21:34

Appreciate the insight. I got her started, and took a couple hours to put another 80 miles on her. Kept the RPMs up, and rode her pretty hard. Clutch slippage is a thing of the past, and I was able to start her the next morning with-out the starter slipping. I don't think the oil got anywhere crazy when I laid her down. Rode her for a week, before it started to get "worse". Looks like (I hope) I did just need to work that 5/30 crapola out. Of course we have lake effect snow squalls and 5' visibility here today , and I’m takin my damn road test Tuesday. Point noted about the drinkin buddies and the shop kiddies :blush: That’s why I’m glad I stumbled onto this bevy of info.

As far as the rotella. I have the short term memory of a… what was I sayin? Oh Yeah. The rotella. The shop guy was basically “I’ve never heard of that” , “Do more damage than good” , “blown gaskets and seals” , “wasn’t designed for that purpose” , “bet your manual doesn’t say ‘or diesel’”. Nothing overly insightful or technical, and I figured I couldn’t go wrong using what was actually printed on my oil cap

Thanks again guys…