clutch wire breaks

ive had dealer replace and adjust and i ve done same clutch has busted 3 times while riding why would clutch wire always shread at the top end nipple at lever there is no binding as i can telljust simple usage ive been told to get a differnt wire im using a kz1ooo model

I recently had a new motion pro cable fray on me after 4-5 months of riding. I was using an aftermarket perch and lever. I have since switched back to the stock clutch perch and lever. I will have to keep an eye on it, but so far it's ok.

You have to lubricate the barrel on the end of the cable so it easily rotates within the lever.

glad to hear im not only one with cable prob
i herd about lubricating and that i never did. at this point i think i want to install a suicide clutch and suicide shifter or hydraulic clutch if possible im looking into it i have a installation on that at babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_..._Clutch.htm&lp=ja_en
i may try an put together a custom heavyduty cable told to get big twin cable never breaks dont now first off just see wat :blink:
but ill be dog on if its al about lubrication geek

Same thing happened to me twice this summer. I had bought a new cable adjuster from Kawasaki but never checked to see if there was a metal burr until the second one snapped. I took a flat file (flat bastard is the correct name) and smoothed off the edges-no problems since. Take a look and see if there is a sharp edge on the adjuster that sits up near the bars and clutch lever. Cheers-Colin Firth


1977 KZ650 Custom. Brought back from the dead after 13 years of neglect. Totally rebuilt from frame up. Wiseco 700 kit. Ported, polished heads. Triple angle valve job. Properly re-jetted rebuilt carbs, Filters, MAC Pipe, Barnett Clutch, Body mods, Bead blasted rims, 14 tooth sprocket front, Superbike Bars, Painted 2005 Chrysler Magnum Red with silver and gold stripes. Only 13,000 miles on bike. Runs and looks like new and does it ever jump off the line! Colin Firth-Ontario-Canada

You can lube the cable end as mentioned which helps some, but I don't think a great deal. The fact of the matter is that end is the weak link in an already weak cable. Get the stock Kawasaki cable, not crap aftermarket as already mentioned. Don't expect the cable to last forever unless all you do is highway riding. A lot of city expect 10,000 out of a cable. I'd have to look back in my notes to see how many I've replaced on my old 650, but I'll bet about 15 of them.

burs on that adjuster sure could grind clutch wire and maybe a few other factors hope that does the trick for u but i think overall a customized heavyduty cable setup and modified lever nitch would never break

I have a 771000 ltd that had (seems like) weekly clutch cable change.

Finally someone from a local shop, old school race guy, said that the threaded barell was the culprit. he said that they are made of steel and ussually never cause a problem. BUT, over time, they wear, and they wear smooth so that it is hard to see that anything is happening. well, when it wears, becase it is hard metal it sharpens and will cut your cable....

I was skeptical. but replaced the cable guide all the same, very inexpensive, just a couple of bucks. that was a year ago and I have not had any issues since.