z650 cam chain tension zee french way

Bonjour les gars:) I finally got round to purchasing my 4th different z650 manual, this time the french version from ETAI. They come out always for 2 bikes, so the little zed is together with the yam dt 125 mx.

The French love details, the manual is a very good read and here's one particular detail I'd hadn't come across elsewhere and would like to share with you.

I've tried it out and lo and behold you do get better tension on the cam chain.

Take off points side cover, trying not to destroy those screws.
Turn shaft using 17mm wrench until you pass the TF 2.3 marks in the upper window and follow the curve round until you reach the peak and the backing plate starts to flaten out. Line the peak with the timing mark on bike and then go and release your cam chain tensioner and you should hear the spring 'pock' and it has taken up the extra slack.

Result, smoother quieter running and a better way to adjust cam chain tension. Then tighten up cam chain nut, put back points cover and take a test ride, congratulate yourself and go have a 'petit noir'and a croissant:)

PS the site is really sharp, thanks to all who have worked so hard
Sorry I'm not around much I'm so busy I wonder sometimes if I'm really here, are there really only 7 days in a week, I remember vaguely about 4 long haired guys singing that there were 8 - sure feels like it these last few months...

Post edited by: Cactus, at: 2005/11/12 13:22

Here's the pic, I couldn't upload first time

Thanks Cactus.

Neat that someone wrote this up.

I had noticed in turning over the GPz with the cam cover off that the chain tends to go slack and then tighten between the two cams sprockets as the cam angles change...

It makes sense that releasing the auto tensioner when it's in this tight portion of the cycle would take up the remaining slack, straight away.

Will give it a try as things go back together.

-Duck

All the manuals I've ever had said to line it up in just this position, so I've always done it that way. The 78 KZ650 owners manual included with the motorcycle when new outlined this procedure. If it's not commonly known, it's good to see it mentioned.

Thank's for the reminder Cactus, but is there actually another way to adjust the cam chain? This is the only way I've know to do it, it's how it's written in my Clymers manual. Not sure about the Haynes or the Factory Service Manual. I have each, but again this is the only procedure I know of.

How have you been doing it before?

Oh, just whenI thought I'd made a breakthro' discovery! Up till now I always took up chain slack on the standard position of the timing mark for cylinders 1-4, it is the T mark 1-4 (or 2-3)on p14 of the Factory, p11 of the Haynes, and pp 50-51 of the MOM, though you're all right that it is this same procedure on p33 of the Clymer, I'd hadn't noticed that before, guess I'd just got used to doing it one way and hadn't noticed the diff in the Clymer, though it is the better position as it takes up more slack than at T 1-4 or T 2-3. I am no longer ignorant!

Are you still riding in France? What's the weather like?

Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2005/11/13 11:21

When i've got the time!! It froze one morning two days ago and has been raining since, but have had a couple of sunny afternoons. I really wanted to get onto the track, but I always seem to be busy on the weekend when there is a chance to go. In fact I even decided to build a shed for the bike as I realised the winter isn't doing it much good, and i'm now working on a better 'luxury' model bike shed.

I must admit summer is great...

I went for a ride yesterday, got up to 12*C and Sunny. Today's a bit windy and I'm alone with the kids. Not much riding weather left in my nic of the woods.

Awsome, I heard the click and now no more "minor chain noise" quiet yeaaah!:silly:
Now I have to repair my rear tire its leaking air as fast as I put the air in:pinch: .
Some one forgot to put the liner in to cover the spokes from pinching the inner tube:whistle:

On a side note. When trying to adjust the cam tensioner, the adjustment bolt with the locknut stripped the threads. I took the whole tensioner unit off but after I get the thing rethreaded, is there a specific way to set the initial tension or will the above method work?

Just follow the above procedure. You may want to start with the tensioner pluger in a ways (not sticking out too far) as you do not want it putting too much pressure on the chain and binding it up. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 2 turns using the 17mm wrench on the right end of the crankshaft to the above mention mark/point and then loosen the lock nut, loosen the plunger nut and then tighten up again.