Help me remove emissions gear!

I've gone through the old posts and my problems sound just like those listed. Rough starting, lopey idle, backfiring....

Someone suggested after hearing my bike that maybe "that's just the way kawasakis sound", referring to the same type of low grumpy idle that many Harleys make. To me it sounds like a poor running bike, not a character trait. My bike experience is limited but my friends Yamaha Virago 650 doesn't run anything like mine. It is silky smooth and revs effortlessly. Mine is rough and the throttle is hard, and far slower (even weighing 75 pounds less and riding a smaller bike)

My bike is a 1983 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD. Carbs were rebuilt by the previous owner (this is verified) and everything looks real clean, but the symptoms remind me of a poorly functioning emissions system. I purchased 4 sets of carb rebuild kits before realizing they'd already been rebuilt, so I'm looking to resell them if anyone would like them.

I have a bike manual although I haven't had time to casually read through everything, so I might be requesting something kinda obvious. If you guys could show me what needs to be done to remove or bypass the emissions on the engine it would be greatly appreciated. Are there block off plates to buy or any extra supplies needed to continue?

I know nothing about the bike or the setup but it sounds like the carbs are out of sync. I would check in it. but rough idle and not wanting to rev sounds like the carbs or.. it is not getting a good spark. but I think it is the carbs

I remember reading it somewhere on this forum, and this is from memory (I will try to find the link). But the large vacuum tube, some reed valves, and the small vacuum hoses comming off the 1st and 4th carb. You will need to seal the plugs on the top of the cylinders by the exhaust port. Don't listen to me tho, let me try to find where I read this.

Found it: "The other two ports have hoses that connect in a tee fitting. The other end of this fitting connects to a emissions device that is vacuum actuated. If the emissions device which looks like a brass colored cylinder about 4 inches long on most bikes, is gone, the hoses should be removed and vacuum caps placed over the vacuum ports on those carburetors. Any vacuum ports left uncapped create a major air leak that can hole a piston. I also suggest you look at the top of your valve cover if the emissions cannister is gone. there are two hoses up there that will not be connected to anything. These lead to ports in the cylinder head that are now not connected to anything. I would take the hoses off your valve cover and plug the holes in the valve cover with Permatex (black) so that air isn't sucked down into the combustion chamber through your reed valves which may or may not be in place inside the valve cover under the two covers on top the valve cover."
kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...id,3/id,31398/#31398

Here is another link:
kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...id,2/id,27551/#27551

Oh and Post three on this one really describes it pretty good:
kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...id,2/id,55677/#55677

Post edited by: JjSwee, at: 2006/09/03 02:22

So what will happen to the motor if the reeds arent plugged (removed) and I have a hose looping from one side (right) to the other (left) ?:whistle:

ran429 wrote:

So what will happen to the motor if the reeds arent plugged (removed) and I have a hose looping from one side (right) to the other (left) ?:whistle:

It will get confused and have identity issues and may require long term group therapy










In other words, nothing that I know of, it ought to work fine.

Nothing will happen. The emissions realy don't affect how these bikes run. It is a good idea to unhook it all just make it easier to work on the bike. Take all the hoses out and either cap the two valve cover holes or just run a hose from one side to the other. I don't think you rough running has anything to do with the emissions crap. First thing to do is check vlave timing All the carb work in the world will not overcome valves that are out of spec. If the valves check out then move on to the timing. Make sure the rotor is going to full advance when you rev it up. Make sure you have new plugs as well and that they are all getting spark and that you are not running on 2 cylinders. Check out wiredgeorges website for some good how to write ups. The carbs must be synched almost perfectly to get the bike to run right. These are very easy bikes to work on. You just have to follow some steps correctly. You CAN NOT assume that anything is right without checking it. You can not say "the bike runs so the valves must be right".

You CAN NOT assume that anything is right without checking it.

That's the critical part right there, and the thing that trips up most people.

Rule #1: Never assume anything!!!!!
Rule #2: Leave the $&^%* carbs alone until you have eliminated every other possible cause of the problem!!:pinch:

Interesting... you did some reading and now determined that the emissions system is causing the problem with the inconsistant idle. I suggest before mucking with the emissions system to synchronize the carburetors as suggested. It almost sounds as if the timing were off but I think your bike doesn't have adjustable timing. If the sync doesn't fix the problem, then remove the emissions stuff. The suggestion was made to plug the ports on your valve cover with Permatex Black. You can also run a hose between the two ports but DO NOT leave them open. Leave the reed valve under the covers as they have rubber gaskets that seal the covers. The reason you can't leave those ports unplugged or connected is that under the reed valves, there is a straight passageway connected to your combustion chamber. In other words, if the bike backfires, flames WILL be coming out the ports as the backfire will push the reed valves open and you would just have holes there. Seems that flames under your gas tank are not a great way to attract attention! ehehe

Unless its the California model the '83 550 doesn't even have emissions.... I guess he didn't mention which model it is...

del

wiredgeorge wrote:

under the reed valves, there is a straight passageway connected to your combustion chamber.

pretty sure the port goes to the exhaust port on the other side of the valve from the combustion chamber, at least on my 1100 head.

Yup. It introduces fresh air into the exhaust system to burn up the unburned hydrocarbons. If the system is bypassed, the bike will emit more unburned hydrocarbons to the atmosphere.

Rickman wrote:

wiredgeorge wrote:

under the reed valves, there is a straight passageway connected to your combustion chamber.

pretty sure the port goes to the exhaust port on the other side of the valve from the combustion chamber, at least on my 1100 head.