media blasting cases/engine

anyone with exp. glass beading cases please provide common mistakes people make, and any tips would be welcomed as I work thru this stage of my project bike. Curious as to what's used in masking mating surfaces, ect, so as not to corrupt these surfaces. Also, is any type of finish needed after or is the bare alum ok by itself? thanks,Matt

I've seen some threads on this, but not lately. I think your media needs to be soft, and not too abrasive. Maybe crushed walnut shells. I know that the media gets everywhere, so you have to mask, but I don't know with what.

Once the aluminum has been blasted, and is nice and bright, it will quickly oxidize, depending on your climate and exposure to salt air, pollution, etc.

Clearcoating will help (that's what Kaw did to your fork tubes), but it will yellow, and probably can't take engine temps. Some people use wax, others use NevrDull, Mothers, Semichrome, S.O.S. pads, etc. This will clean up the aluminum after it oxidizes, and your engine will look good for a month or two.

Matt, like ltdrider says, walnut shells are probably the best. At least they're bio-dregradable.:whistle:
I've had several cases blasted with #8 glass beads that work quite well. Again, the media will get everywhere if you don't have a cabinet.
As far as the outside of the cases go, just blast away. However I try to refrain from blasting gasket/bearing surfaces for obvious reasons. When finished blasting, I like to blow off the blasted areas with compressed air.
One thing that MUST be done is to take care of all the bolt holes. I blow out all the media that I can, then use the appropriate tap with some heavy grease to clean up/clean out the threads.
Then I use carb or brake cleaner to spray the cases down (and into the bolt holes) to remove all the media and grease residue.
I am going to paint my engine with PJ1 black engine paint because I don't have the patience or know-how to polish and polish and polish, etc.:woohoo:
Eastwood Company sells a product called ZOOP that supposedly keeps bare aluminum from oxidizing, but I have yet to use it. From what I understand though, the ZOOP coating will only last about two years. Then it seems you will have to do the process all over again. Again, not for me.
I wish I knew what Kawasaki uses to keep their cases shiny for so long.:huh:
I hope this info helps and good luck to you. Keep us posted on your progress.
Jim

If you are going to do that, after you are done, remove the oil gally plug/s and take the cases to an automatic transmission shop that does their own rebuilds, and have them wash them in their cleaning machine. That will get the residue out.

Jay