No compression....checking valve clearance

Noob here. Long time lurker on the board...first time poster. I've had this bike sitting in my garage for quite awhile and am just now getting around to working on it. 1983 KZ1100 LTD L1. It's my first motorcycle. At any rate, the beast turns over, but no compression. So, following the Clymer manual, I've removed the valve cover and am attempting to put either cylinder 1 or 4 at TDC to check clearance. However, my timing cover doesn't seem to match up with what's listed in the manual. Further, at no point after turning the crankshaft clockwise does the cam lobes on any cylinder BOTH point away from the valve lifter at the same time. What next?

Thanks.
Texdan

[img size=150] [/img]

Post edited by: texdan, at: 2006/07/18 22:05

Sorry...picture upload failed...too large. Trying to figure it out but I'm an idiot! Anyone give me a hand here? Thanks!

[img=150]

Texdan [img=150]

Post edited by: texdan, at: 2006/07/18 21:57

Post edited by: texdan, at: 2006/07/18 22:14

Read the "Rules" thread at the top of the forum, picture posting instructions are in the second post. Correction, third post in that thread

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/07/18 22:19

If you can't get both sets of lobes to face away from the valves the same time then there's no way you'll ever have compression. Maybe the cams have been fooled with and/or reversed. Some models intake and exhaust cams look identical but aren't. Also easy to use the wrong marks on the cam sprockets and have the cams in wrong. Either one of these mistakes normally result in bent valves. Check valve clearances. If they are way too large you know valves are bent.

Forgive what may be a stupid question here, but when the manual says the cam lobes "point away" from the valvelifter, does that mean a perpendicular direction or horizontal? The cam sprockets appear to be installed correct based on the manual...looks just like the picture in manual...such that when the arrows are pointing opposite from each other on the sprockets, #1 is supposed to be at TDC. I checked, and the cam lobes on #1 are horizontal to the valve lifters.

I do sense a "binding" at one point during the rotation of the motor.

Just learin' here. Bear with me.


Texdan

OK, after reading my Clymer manual a bit more thoroughly, it says to "turn the crankshaft clockwise.....until one of the cam lobes is pointing directly away from it's valve" in order to check valve clearance.

The section I had been reading last night was for a bike model different from mine. Idiot me.

So, based on that I won't (and can't) attempt to have lobes on both the exhaust and intake pointing directly away at the same time. Right?

Also, how to verify I've got #1 at TDC. Looks like cam sprockets are lined up correct based on the manual, but at that point, both the intake and exahust cam lobes on #1 are at a 45deg angle to the valve lifter. Albet, at that point there's no pressure on the valve. I've got a feeler gauge, but it's not sized correctly for this application. I'll be picking one up this evening.

Sorry if I'm being dense, but this is a project I really want to complete and get the sense of accomplishment. Want to avoid too many screw ups! This bike hasn't been run in years. That's how I bought it. Know nothing else of it's history.

Thanks
Dan
1983 KZ1100 LTD L1

Does Texdan mean you are a Texican or just wish you was? Bwhahaha Where you live fella? Might be some local help for you... put location in your sig.

Go to my web site and look at the valve clearance page.

When you have the cam lobes pointing away from the buckets, one will point directly away and the other will be at about 45 degrees... You will do 1 & 3 or 2 & 4 and roll the crank 360 degrees and do the other two (for intake) then go do exhaust the same way.

Again, BOTH lobes will not point away in the same manner but one will point directly away and one will be angled away but still allow you to get to the shim.

One last thing Texdan... thinking about this another way... how did you check compression? Did you remove all spark plugs, hold the throttle wide open and crank engine over with the starter?

Post edited by: wiredgeorge, at: 2006/07/19 16:11

WG-

Thanks....I've got a clearer picture. And yep, I've reviewed your website previously and I thought I understood the valve clearance process. However, I learn by doing...just reading 'bout things doesn't click with me.

I did the compression check with 1 spark plug removed at a time and WOT. The other spark plugs were left in but very loose. I got zero compression before and after adding a tablespoon of oil.

This bike had sat for several years before I bought it and that was several years ago! The neighbor I bought it from never had it running either.

I'm in Katy (just west of Houston).

Texdan

I am not too far from you, if you want to pm me I will get you my cell phone number and may be able to help if you want , ther are several kz people in the area, let me know

BSKZ650-

That'd be way cool of you. I've checked my valve clearance and it is:

1. In .25mm EX .25mm
2. In .13mm EX .10mm
3. In .11mm EX .01mm
4. In .09mm EX .08mm

Holding my finger over the spark plug hole, hand cranking the engine and with all spark plugs removed:

1. IN no suction EX no pressure
2. IN suction EX no pressure
3. IN suction EX no pressure
4. In suction EX no pressure

When cranking and holding my finger over spark plug hole #4 for example I can hear and sense the pressure being released from one of the other plug holes.

Sorry if I'm making this sound 3rd grade level. Part of the learning process....crawl before you walk, right?

Again, I've launched into this 'cause no compression with gauge.

Texdan

Those valve clearances are plenty close enough for running. The chances of having all 4 cylinders no compression is near zero without human help. I'm not familiar with the 83L1, but if its similar to some other Kawasakis in the era, the intake and exhaust cams and sprockets look identical but aren't. Hopefully the manual will help identify how to distinuish between the 2 and be sure they are not reversed. This has to be a problem due to someones misassembly previously by the way it sounds.

That could be possible. The guy I bought it from a couple of years ago was an automobile mechanic and said he had tried to get it running, but failed. He admitted he had rebuilt the carbs himself, but did not say if he'd touched the cams....or if the previous owner had. I'll see if I can tell. Wouldn't reversed cams cause damage...such as bent valves?