Runaway Idle

A couple of things, you say you corrected the cam timing and fitted the tensioner? It is my understanding that your bike has a hyvo chain and guide blade in the cam cover ? If so you need to set the cams with the marks aligned and the correct pin count between the cams then fit the cam cover before the tensioner- failure to do this will move the timing and over tighten the chain !! Also the timing reference I believe is a “red herring” I have never known cam timing to cause a hanging idle !
 I would also re-check the valve lash, I also built and gapped my valves with the head on the bench, once installed and cranked a few times everything has “settled and the valve clearance had reduced to around half what I set them at

Absolutely Correct Wookie! You can change rpm with a "manual tensioner" though but would have no "hanging idle" behavior. That's a whole different bird. When you took these carbs down to base zero did you "STICK" casted holes or jets with incorrect sized cleaning crap laying around? Just cataloging procedures at this point, pics and such. I believe i know your issue Mlodge but i don't think you have the equipment to complete? I'm just farting around now but relevant to either carb version you have. This group of photos is to show proper removal of the pilot fuel screw plug without "screwing it up". I start with a chucked-up #70 twist bit in a holder mounted to a drill. This provides a pilot hole for the next #43 bit, collared so it doesn't go too far and hit the brass adjuster. Then just tap/ pull the plug out. I like the sae 4-40 tap/screw combo, course thread but easily sourced.            

Pilot adjust brass screw should resemble this. Note the original screws had a shoulder milled into them so you couldn't jam them down soo far as to get the "tip" wedged into the casting hole. Aftermarket crap never takes this into account and where a lot of person's get into trouble unknowingly.    

"T" is your top dead center mark

"F1-4" is your firing mark for cylinders 1 and 4 at idle.
You want to set your timing at idle here.

the "II" marks are your advanced timing marks for cylinder 1 and 4
when advanced your timing should be in between the "II"
that will start anywhere from 3500rpm - 3900rpm
the advance at the "II" will be 39-40 degrees BTDC

if you set your timing to the "T" your timing was retarded 8 to 11 degrees from what the service manual wants.

Usually, the bigger the bore the more you need to advance the timing but depending on how turbulent your your mixture is now--you may end up retarding.
You'll have to see where your engine likes to be.
 

Thank you everyone for the overwhelming response so Wookie you may be on to something because I was putting the tensioner in before the valve cover so that could be a source of one of my issues. So I did take some photos of my carbs, I do have the correct pilot screw, and I have it adjusted to 3.5 turns out according to the jet kit I already used. The jet kit did come with new needles and washers/ C clips to adjust the height on them. The Style carb I have is the two main jet carb, I took some photos of my carbs so show the intake blade adjustment, the inside of the upper cover where the CV boot is, the needle and holes, I only enlarged one hole (again according to the kit and the service reps instructions). There is also a photo of the DynoJet Kits instructions I used for reference. 

So update here I was able to figure out the runaway idle issue it was the vacuum gauges I was using to sync the carbs leaking. However the hang idle is still an issue, there is also occasional popping when the RPM comes back down. I am going to link a video I posted to Youtube of my bike running, near the end you can hear the popping better. Yes I know there is some clattering coming from near the transmission at low RPM I'm still chasing that one but it not my main concern here still. At one point in the video you can see the RPM try to run away after blipping the throttle and you can see me reach for the key to shut it off but it stabilizes itself and then slowly comes back down. So for reference the bike in its current condition as it sits in the video has the 4 vacuum ports plugged, a crossover tube for the emission valves, I have made sure the throttle cable is lubed and not sticking or binding and the butterflies snap back closed when you let off the throttle, the carburetors all have the proper spring washer and gasket for the idle mixture screw, all 4 cylinders are firing fully now, the choke is off and the bike is fully warmed up, the valve cover was installed before the chain tensioner to avoid over tightening it and static timing was set off of T1 mark for cylinder 1 TDC with the "IN" mark on the intake cam landing between the 45th and 46th pin on the timing chain counted from the 1st pin off the EX mark on the exhaust cam. 

Here is a link to the video I hope yall can see and hear what I am seeing so I can stop running in circles.  
youtube.com/shorts/A7Onw_PDQIk?feature=share

To be clear, the automatic cam chain tensioner operates on the "slack" side of the camshaft "drivetrain", so it can never have any influence on the "timing" relationship between the crankshaft and camshafts.
The curved Hyvo chain guide in the cam cover does indeed rotate the two cams "towards" each other, but this is taken care of by the timing arrows on each of the can sprockets. 
The two timing arrows must be horizontal, opposing each other, parallel to the top of the cylinder head - when the crank is at TDC cylinder 1...

 

 

 


H.
 

Can I add that you should rotate the engine forwards through two full turns of the crank and re-check the marks to ensure that there wasn't slack in the front of the chain when the timing was initially set

So this last time I assembled it that's what I did, made sure there was no slack ran through a few rotations and set it exactly according to the manual. This was the results and in the video I shared a link to you can hear how it runs now. 

Have carbs been vac synced ?

So I did a static bench sync and I'm not sure If I just bought shitty gauges or if there is another issue but the needles are staying in the "late valve timing or leak at intake manifold" zone. When they are hooked up I also get the runaway idle coming back where I start the bike and the RPM screams to over 4k instantly even when choked. And it only does that with the gauges hooked up so I know its not a massive vacuum leak but I'm theorizing that I either have a small one or my pod filters are just still allowing too much air to pass through. I have seen some methods of taping them half way to see if that helps, making sure the rubber lip inside of them isn't covering the half moon bleed port (which they're not there is about a 3mm gap between the rubber and the port) and I have tried spraying around the area with ether to no avail on finding an external leak or crack. The rubber bushings the carbs mate to are brand new too I replaced them thinking the old ones were too rigid can possibly cracked. 
 

That almost sounds like an air leak through the gauges