KZ1300 cam chain tensioner won't go back in

Hey, gang.  Upon checking the valves of my '81 KZ1300, I noticed that the cam chain had a lot of slack in it; I know that the stock tensioners are a problem.  The FSM said to remove it periodically to check it and reinstall.  I removed it hoping to manually extend the rod somehow to take up slack but the rod appears to be frozen.  The bigger problem is that when I went to reinstall, it won't go back in the hole as if something is blocking it right on the other side.  No, I haven't moved the crank or cams at all.

What am I doing wrong?

I assume the slack in the chain you are talking about is between the cams ? - this is normal, there is a guide in the cam cover that takes up the slack when the cover is fitted however before re-fitting the cover you need to back off the tensioner. Now your tensioner is removed don't refit until the cam cover is on or the chain will be over tightened !! The manual should tell you how to release the adjustment in the tensioner until it is re-fitted

If by "cam cover" you are referring to the valve cover or the engine head cover as the FSM calls it, I have put it back in place and tightened the bolts in the center around the cam gears.  I have not done them all in case I need to remove it again.

No, I was not referring to the slack between the cams; there is little anyway.  I was referring to the section of chain below the intake came.  That is loose which led me to investigate and would account for the rattle I was hearing at idle.

If I'm not getting ahead of you, I checked out the tensioner (I have installed others on smaller bikes).



I played with it and pretty much figured out how to "cock" it, and insert it all the way into the block (I figured out that I couldn't reinsert it earlier probably because it was extended all the way out).  But first, is the flat portion of the rod "up" toward the 10mm screw at the top?  If so, do I simply insert and loosen the 10 mm bolt to apply tension?  I assume that I remove the valve cover and check for tension.

The FSM addresses none of this.

I forgot to consult the parts schematic which shows the flat portion up.

detmeyer wrote:

I played with it and pretty much figured out how to "cock" it, and insert it all the way into the block (I figured out that I couldn't reinsert it earlier probably because it was extended all the way out).  But first, is the flat portion of the rod "up" toward the 10mm screw at the top?  If so, do I simply insert and loosen the 10 mm bolt to apply tension?  I assume that I remove the valve cover and check for tension.

The FSM addresses none of this.

I would suggest that with the valve cover in place you insert a piece of round bar etc into the tensioner hole and push firmly against the tensioner blade - note the distance from the guide blade to the gasket face. Now compare that to the tensioner when fully extended. I would expect the extended tensioner to be at least 20mm more. If there is little difference then either the chain is stretched or there is a problem with the tensioner guide inside the motor (this has what appears to be a plastic gear on the parts slide) If all is ok then with the valve cover installed fit the fully retracted tensioner, rotate the motor slightly so there is no slack in the front of the chain then release the tension, let it settle and tighten the bolt. Do not remove the valve cover with the tensioner activated or the chain will over tighten (common across the Kawasaki range to have a guide in the valve cover between the cams)