1980 KZ750E Thinnest Valve Shim Recommended

Never ending project bike.  I found a bent valve, ordered parts.  Guide was too big so I checked the existing valve guide with the oem.valve I orded. There seems to be a sliiiight bit of play until the seal, then feels solid.  

Lacling funds, we went for the build. Measuring the valve clearances, the new valve still contacts the cam with the smallest 2mm shim.  I found some 1.85mm and up kit and also a 1.25mm up kit, but too small of a shim will leave the valve spring cap in contact with the cup, loosening the shims on each rpm. 

1 what is the smallest shim that can be used on the 1980 KZ750E?

2 I could remove the head again and pull the valve, have it ground down, and reassemble with room to spare for future shims.
 
Problems:
I felt like the head bolt by chain tensioner started getting easier to turn as it should have hit spec. Stopped turning torque wrench and got the other bolt and 12 nuts to torque spec. 

The aftermarket chain tensioner mount bolts feel bad and really close to turning out.  It has to be removed every rebuild, and I fear those threads will be another thing to fix.

I will need to save to have a vlave shop grind the valve, but it probably needs a lapping that I skipped in hopes of it bedding in the kinda freshly machined seat.  

I hear a fsssssst on rotating the crank for valve feelers.  It has to be the new valve. I did not hook up the compression tester to each yet.

Thanks fam.

Kawasaki says hat a 2.00 shim is the thinnest to be used.

www.kzrider.com/filebase-alias?task=down...id=1266&catid=17&m=0

I had 1.5 mm shims (machined) when got my bike. The previous owner had one shim kick out or broken and replace, then  sold the bike. I had to get the valves stem trimmed. Or you can get new seats for $$$