KZ305: cam chain tensioner noise / needs adjustment?

Currently working through the KZ305 as posted a few times about. Since getting the bike, it's made a clunking noise as in the video attached below. I went through the ignition system including the points and valve adjustment (right cylinder was tight) and have adjusted everything within specs. The KZ650 I had prior had an auto-adjusting cam chain, so haven't adjusted those prior on these bikes, but wondering if the sound I'm hearing is a cam chain that needs adjustment? If anyone can give me their thoughts on the sound, that'd be greatly appreciated.

In other news the bike seems to be running fairly smoothly otherwise minus probably needing a few minor carb tweaks. Carbs and the tank seem to be free of  the rust and ethanol gunk that plagued the bike from previous owner letting it sit.

Edit: video link as original video was too large. youtube.com/shorts/2XsDuDE5YpE

On my 82 kz305, there is no adjustment for cam chain tension. The Tensioner is a compression spring loaded shaft that applies pressure on the rear cam chain guide.

So, you are correct. The same shop book has about 10 different bikes listed which some have manual, some have auto. The 1981 kz305a does have an automatic tensioner. Not sure if this is still chain noise exacerbated by something needing carb tuning which is on my list of things to double check. Will go back and check the left cylinder valves again as they were on the tighter side of the span. I didn't come across any vacuum leaks but will check the usual culprits as well.

If anyone has additional suggestions, let er rip. I have looked around to see if there is a replacement spring or a manual tensioner alternative but all old threads seem to be dead or lack of any useful findings.

If you do not have a shop manual for the 305 there is one in the file base which covers the 250 and the 305. It is indicated that there is no adjustment for the tensioner, but it does explain how to remove it and reset it (page 223 and 224). I do not know if this would lessen the noise you are hearing. Will say sometimes if the carbs are not synched strange noised can and do happen.

I have a copy, just the multiple bike models 250/305 has been giving me a headache on the PDF finding things. I appreciate you providing the teardown page #s. Luckily there is nos of the larger spring so a rebuild may be feasible. Regarding the sync, I checked it among other things on the carb but have added it to my double check list along with the valves on left cylinder to just adjust them to middle of spec vs close to bottom of range for peace of mind.

I get what you are saying regarding the manual covering different years and actual models (250 and 305). In the supplement for the 305 it does indicate which part of the manual the different components of the bike's systems need to be used to adjust or maintain them. 

If it were me I would follow the instructions for removal and reset, reinstall it and then see if it solves the noise, if not then maybe a new spring.

Yes sir, I found the section for disassembly the other day. I ordered the larger spring as they were available on eBay and just figured I'll plan to install it regardless. Being that the auto tensioner seems easy enough to service from the manual diagram, the new spring was still cheaper than a manual tensioner, if one even exists for the kz305 to begin with.

So I finally got around to tearing the thing apart and reset it. I didn't pay too much attention to the entire setup and looked like I had everything. Reset it and no dice, still making noise.

So my spring finally came in. Took apart again and added the spring into the pile. Return spring is definitely a bit longer and stiffer. Great. But what is curious is, after comparing to the parts fiche I noted one part missing. The collar for the tensioner. Doh. Don't know how I missed that. Part # 92027-1240. I'm definitely going to be ordering that as I believe that's the part that the ratcheting collar actually presses up against.

Any of y'all able to confirm this? The part together in the link below definitely shows the collar inside the tensioner frame which I definitely don't have. I also added an image of the inside of the tensioner hole for the head and to me it doesn't appear that the part is stuck in there or anything that I'm missing. 

www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...haft-chain-tensioner

dkmotorcycles.co.uk/product/kawasaki-kz3...cam-chain-tensioner/

Explain the noise a bit more.
Here's my recent experience. I replaced piston rings on my 83 305csr and once I had it all back together it made a whining noise, as if the cam chain was too tight. I decided to go for a little ride and hope the noise would go away. (Bad idea) The bike died 2 blocks from home. A quick check after pushing the bike back home, I found when I turned the crank shaft by hand, there was no compression and the cam shaft didn't turn. It will be a couple more weeks until I will have the time to disassemble and investigate.

This is definitely a clunk on what sounds like both cylinders firing (not tied to one or the other). I had a kz650 and it sounds like the same cam chain noise from that bike when the carbs were out of sync but just amplified. I've gone through the valves and points adjustments and positive it isn't those. The carbs may be very slightly out of balance as I havent done a vacuum sync yet but doing the tail pipe test as explained in the manual shows both cylinders are firing more or less evenly. I've gone through the rest of the ignition and everything seems to be fine. Only issue I noted yesterday was the right cylinder float on carb is sticking or is too high but I'll tackle that later. Carbs are otherwise clean as I went through them and replaced bad parts.

Here's a video of the sound after I re-did the chain tensioner. The noise is the same in the first video I posted and second one. I'm almost positive the missing collar is what holds the tensioner in place but not extremely familiar with the operation which is why I asked if anyone else can confirm.

Video of noise on July 10:  youtube.com/shorts/0pKZ3RAdMPM?feature=shared

Let us know if the ball race does lessen the noise. Though the attached doc is about the units that came stock on the 650s it does explain how the ball race is supposed to work.

Noteworthy. Those "retainer", nothing more then a caged ball ring, have been problematic for everything they put them in starting in 1979. Theory is it's supposed to "wedge" around the pushrod and not back-out. That's not always the case though, they slip back and spring isn't strong enough to keep the chain tight. They used this on the KZ1300 but everyone replaces them, google it, you'll see the similarities in design. The KZ1000 1979 -80 also used them, same issues. That other "two" wedge design gd4now shows is a better design.