Need list of tools needed to remove kz1000 1977 clutch

Hello everyone!

   Does any one have a good list of the tools needed to remove and replace a clutch in as 1977 kz1000 A1 ?

If you are just replacing the friction plates, I think all you need is a screwdriver and a 10mm socket wrench.

For the plates you need to remove the cover and then remove the five 10mm headed m6 bolts , springs and pressure plate.
After this you can undo the 27mm central retaining nut ( 30mm on later models) to remove the clutch hub if needed .
The actual basket cannot be removed without splitting the crankcases.

Thank you Zed!
I am going inside just to see if the plates and disc are in good condition. Bike has low miles but I still want to see the condition of the clutch. 

An impact driver w/#3 bit is a great help when time comes to remove engine cover screws.

Chances are high that the clutch is fine.  They wear very little, unless the bike has been drag raced and/or, an unsympathetic rider rode around for a long time with the clutch slipping.

It's advised to replace the springs while you have the clutch open.  They tend to take a set after decades in a compressed position.  Also, lube or replace the cable while you are into the job.  A fresh cable is a thing of beauty!

Thank You Sir! Do you know of a great place to get great springs? and cables?

The screws are JIS standard, not Phillips.  You can use a Phillips driver but you will almost certainly damage the screws.

Fora stock engine, the factory springs can't be beaten.

japan.webike.net/products/24910818.html

www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/92081...56e10c457f5a7ba3ebaa

Aftermarket ones are also available, but I have no experience with them.

www.z1enterprises.com/motorcycles/Kawasa...utch-components.html
 

I have been using EBC replacement "heavy duty" clutch springs for many years. Even tho the package says they are 15% stronger than stock you can't tell on the lever end.

They are cheaper than Barnett and OEM. They usually come with a extra spring in the pack (multi bike use?) so if you buy enough you eventually have a "free" set

I rode for a few years with Barnett "red" drag springs (the heaviest duty 30%??) and my hand use to get cramped after a dozen stops. On the same engine I now use the EBC springs and its just fine, no clutch slip on a high HP 650 engine. I installed a set in my Z1 1200 build, will see how they handle the extra 30HP.

+1 for the EBC "heavy duty" springs.  Lever feel is pretty much the same.