KZ 440 Help

Good evening.

I have a  few page post under projects as I have been trying to resurrect an '81 D3 Belt.  After six months, today was the inaugural "long" ride.  For the past week the bike started first push, and went up and down the local streets no issue.

Today I rode with a friend following for support.  We got up to a few 45 / 50 MPH roads and still no issue.  Then we hit a hilly section and when giving it some gas after down shifting the engine would start to pick up revs, then the tone would switch higher and start to lose power slightly.  After a little more fluttering of power I figured I better head home.  Unfortunately at the next stop sign the bike died.  When trying to bump start it the bike would not engage into second gear, and when I finally did get it into second, we could push it without much resistance.  

He came back with a jumper box but all we got was a click,  So we loaded it up and brought it home.  I found that one of the stator leads came loose where I tried to repair frayed wires, but while researching both wires broke free from the plug.  I knew they were frayed when I started this but was hoping they would hang on.

Now the bike is back to fully charged and all I get is a loud click when I hit the starter.  So I am assuming it is a bad starter motor?  The click only and the fact that I can only really shift into 1st and N.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be most welcome.

Thank you.

Bruce

Your transmission has a feature called a Positive Neutral Finder that prevents shifting to any gears other than first and neutral when the bike is stationary.
The change in engine sound when accelerating uphill, and the lack of resistance when pushing the bike in gear suggests a slipping clutch. This is often caused by improper adjustment of the clutch cable or a clutch that has been soaked with automotive engine oil.
The clicking when trying to use the starter can be caused by several things including a battery that has been killed by lack of proper charging caused by frayed wires.

Check out my electrical fault finding guide (link in my signature) towards the back there is a generic "starter circuit" test plan

Thank you both for the replies.

It is pretty humbling knowing how little I know about working on motorcycles.  I can see why so many of these types of bikes are started and never finished.  And it is not as easy as watching some of the people on YouTube. 

At least it does not seem like there is catastrophic failure, yet.  I did a quick electrical test and have intermittent test light to the power side of the solenoid.  Nothing from the output side.  I will dig through the wiring and see if anything is loose, and use Wookie58's guide to troubleshoot.  

Once I get that sorted then I can move on to the stator and clutch issues.

Again, thank you to everyone who is kind enough to help, not only here but the other thread.  

Bruce

Solenoid is good, sort of, and I was able to get the bike to crank. 

The positive lead was not making good contact and I noticed what looks like melted plastic.  Looks like a solenoid will be on the shopping list to be safe. 

I guess the next step is drop the oil, order some gaskets, and see if I can extend the stator leads out of the case. 

thanks again. 

Got her working again.  So far no oil leaks from the left side case, and I confirmed the stator is working as the battery voltage increases with some revs.

The clutch seems better after some adjustments but I need a longer test to make sure.  

The oil filter bolt is rounded over (of course), but seeing as the oil was pretty clear I just refilled it for now.  I will order a drain bolt and change the oil again when the snow starts flying.

I will start a little slower this time and go for a short ride, then inspect the wiring in hopes of avoiding another mishap.  The stator, neutral and oil pressure wires are so close to the belt.  I am hoping I have them tucked up enough this time.

Thanks again to TexasKZ and Wookie58 for helping me get it running again.