TOPIC:

On a 1983 LTD 750?

It looks like once u got the head bolts out the "whole" head comes off.

Post edited by: zzzmann, at: 2005/11/02 23:39

Check the filebase, I think the 750 manual is up there. Basically if you have your cam cover off you will also need to get your cams out of the way so you can get the cam chain off. Then you will remove the 8 or 12 large nuts and the 2 small hidden bolts and you should be able to pull the head off.

You can get a parts diagram buykawasaki.com/html/default_frame.asp?s...E.ASP?INTCATALOGID=2 You will have to search by model, our VINs arent standard to use the VIN search

I replaced the HG on my 82 750 LTD last spring. Not a terrible job and DanOz7Five0 hit it right. The 12 bolts on mine weren't bad, but there are two more down in the cam chain well that you need an extension for. Be sure and tie the cam chain to the frame with a tie wrap as soon as you have the cams free. If you drop it there is lots more work to do. Also make sure you completely clean away any gasket material before putting the new one on. I was told that any leftover gasket would guarantee a leak in the new one. I scraped old gasket for a couple of hours with a razor and knife. Make sure you don't score the head with the razor - easy to do. I was also told that you need to keep the pairs of cam bolts together and the holders must go in the right place (they are numbered). Follow the torquing sequence carefully as well (in the manual). Check, check and triple check your cam timing. I did and still got off one tooth. Like I said, not a bad job. Go slow and careful and you will be fine. It was my first time and it still runs!

Use a manual and you will be fine.

I tried a few weeks back, was my first time digging into the engine...my blind caps were stuck shut so I couldn't even do the job. I found this out once I had already taken the cams out. Make sure they will budge before you rip everything out of there.
And as Nothreat said, be careful not to drop the cam chain or you'll be digging for it. When reassembling the valvetrain, I would definitely 1) check valve clearance and 2) use threadlocker blue on the cam cap bolts, as they vibrated loose on my bike. Wouldn't be good if a pair came completely loose. Maybe mine's more "vibrant" than most, but I wouldn't take that chance.

BTW the blind caps are the round plugs with a threaded hole in the top...they allow access to the inner four head bolts.

Post edited by: masospaghetti, at: 2005/11/03 22:13

For cleaning gaskets: there's this spray Permatex makes that dissolves the old gasket into a more easily scrapeable goo. Dont spray it on your skin too much, it is painful.
Get a nice gasket scraper . These helped a lot, but still didnt stop me from using air-powered wire brushes. Guess I just have to have TEH POWER TOOLZ.


If you wipe a real light coating of grease on the new gaskets it makes them stick to the surfaces, makes mounting a little easier. But it burns off the first time you let the engine get good'n warmed up, with the most alarming smoke!


Follow your torque sequences and values precisely.. and note that the values in the manual are frequently given as a range that is wider than a cheap torque wrench's percentage of error...

I prefer vaseline for making gaskets adhere, plus it is cheap. If you use a power tool to remove old gasket material, be extremely carefull not to use too much pressure, as it can remove metal and scar the surface. The abrasive residue isn't very good for your engine either.

Perhaps this is my opinion only, but it seems that most surfaces are too soft for a proper automotive gasket scraper. Use some type of solvent, a razor blade, and lots of time and attention. Airtools are nice for putting a very fine hatch on surfaces at the end to make sure gaskets seal and don't slip around. Moly grease is also a good rubber oring fixer.

Post edited by: jenshhj, at: 2005/11/04 17:49