TOPIC:

My KZ1000J motor has a GPZ oil fitting for routing the oil to an oil cooler.  It is threaded with 1/4NPT pipe threads  for AN hoses in place ol the standard oil cooler lines. I unbolted it to replace the -6 (3/8"mol) with -8 but it remained quite solid to the crankcase.  How do I go about removing it without damaging it?
Thanks for all the patience with me..

Pictures may help...

A "tap" should break it loose, providing you are sure ALL the fasteners are removed. A very important mechanical skill, is knowing how much force you can apply to something without f##king it up!

Good Luck,  Mike

And unfortunately there is only one sure way to develop that "mechanical skill" !   

sf4t7 wrote:

And unfortunately there is only one sure way to develop that "mechanical skill" !   

Experience is an excellent, but sometimes very expensive teacher. I was fortunate that as a Factory Mechanic, I could break things (learn), without paying the "tuition".  I actually got paid to learn! (break things)

Mike

krazee1 wrote:

Experience is an excellent, but sometimes very expensive teacher. I was fortunate that as a Factory Mechanic, I could break things (learn), without paying the "tuition".  I actually got paid to learn! (break things)

Mike

It's always nice when somebody else is paying for your education 

I did give them 43 years of my life for the compensation and experience that I earned. 

Mike

I tpopped free with a very light blow from a plastic hammer.  I hope those flattened O-ring seals were the same as the ones in my Vesrah seal kit.  I also used a bit of sealant on the rubber intake manifold boots as I thought the rubber a bit stiff and surface on the head is not quite perfect.  Enclosed is a picture of the setup.
I'm trying to crank up the oil but have never dealt with a low pressure system like this before.   I have also disconnect the hose out of the OP switch  area and injected oil back down to the pump to help priming it.   I disconnected the hose at the oil cooler and the flow at cranking speed is low enough to be quite worrisome.   I did add one of those  oil  pan gates as the oil system is not designed to work with the g force of going around a turn and the motor staying horizontal rather than the lean of a MC.  I think I'll take off the valve cover to see if the oil eventually gets there
 

sf4t7 wrote:

And unfortunately there is only one sure way to develop that "mechanical skill" !   

really? And were all born with master mechanic touch…smh
 

I have always been very conservation when cranking a new motor even without spark plugs for fear of overheating the starter motor.  Today I tried it a little longer and the oil pressure light went out  and did that several times so I assume the oil system is working properly.  I then took the valve cover back off and applied more prelube to the cams as some had lost most of their prelube..  I'm reinstalling the carbs and then just have to go after some non ethanol fuel.

Don't let the slow flow at cranking speed fool you, these engines operate at a low pressure but high volume. If you run it with the cam cover off you will see just how much oil it splashes around.

The guy who does my engine boring/porting has built a lot of these engines for motorcycle side car racing where the engines are basically enclosed behind a massive fairing. He reports teams using his engines are winning and the engine life is very good. They run stock oil pumps, pan gates, electric fans, and big oil coolers.