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zr550 wiseco 615cc build 22 Apr 2023 07:08 #883570

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Hi All, I’m putting a Wiseco 615cc kit in my zephyr 550. I have a couple questions, will likely have (many) more - 
  • Is assembly lube safe for the wet clutch?  Maybe I should just use motor oil instead? 
  • Do I need to buy a ring filer to set piston ring gap? I see some pretty cheap ones available online (~$30-50). I suppose it can’t hurt to have another tool, though I don’t see another engine rebuild in my future any time soon. 
  • I have some questions on which parts to make sure to replace but I want to take a good look at all the parts diagrams and come back with a comprehensive list. 
My current bike’s engine is still running strong at ~80K miles, but it seems there is an internal oil leak which is making starting it almost impossible (I have another thread about that issue). I ended up buying a cylinder block and head off eBay which I’ll work on while continuing to ride the bike. I sent them to APE for cylinder boring as well as a head rebuild.  They actually said the head looked close to perfect (I have no idea how many miles it has on it, maybe very few). 

Thanks!
Mark  
1990 Zephyr zr550 B1
Wiseco 615cc kit
zx550 cams
SPII ignition system
Kerker stainless steel race exhaust with 1.5" competition baffle
K&N Air Filter...
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zr550 wiseco 615cc build 22 Apr 2023 09:22 #883578

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I’m too much of a n00b to have any answers to your questions, but I just want to say I’m very excited to follow this thread. I hope to do a big bore kit on at least one of my Zephyrs someday. I hope you take lots of photos and document as much about it as you can. 
A breeze from the west.
‘90 ZR550 Zephyr (x2)

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zr550 wiseco 615cc build 22 Apr 2023 09:49 #883580

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Hi All, I’m putting a Wiseco 615cc kit in my zephyr 550. I have a couple questions, will likely have (many) more - 
  • Is assembly lube safe for the wet clutch?  Maybe I should just use motor oil instead? 
  • Do I need to buy a ring filer to set piston ring gap? I see some pretty cheap ones available online (~$30-50). I suppose it can’t hurt to have another tool, though I don’t see another engine rebuild in my future any time soon. 
  • I have some questions on which parts to make sure to replace but I want to take a good look at all the parts diagrams and come back with a comprehensive list. 
My current bike’s engine is still running strong at ~80K miles, but it seems there is an internal oil leak which is making starting it almost impossible (I have another thread about that issue). I ended up buying a cylinder block and head off eBay which I’ll work on while continuing to ride the bike. I sent them to APE for cylinder boring as well as a head rebuild.  They actually said the head looked close to perfect (I have no idea how many miles it has on it, maybe very few). 

Thanks!
Mark  

 

I have used Clevite "bearing guard" assembly lube for at least 6 Kawasaki engine rebuilds with no clutch issues. Its a sticky red lube, never really looked into the composition but I believe it is high quality and superior over plain engine oil on first startup.

Very seldom have I had to file ring ends but it does happen. You have to be really careful especially with the new thin rings. The end filer at those prices is cheaper than replacing a broken ring if your heavy handed. I think it would be wise if you purchased something that will clamp the ring tight, holding it is key to not breaking one.

If you are having the work done at APE start asking them questions about the reassembly. They should be able to give you some useful information.
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