TOPIC:

I am planning on replacing the head gasket in my 82' KZ750 LTD 4cyl. because its leaking oil on the left side(driver's side if it were a car) of the engine between the head and the block.
I am looking for any advice from someone who has done this before. 
Looking at Kawasaki's parts diagrams, I need:
The O-ring that actually failed causing the leak
A head gasket
A valve cover gasket
and possibly the exhaust gaskets

I'm just looking to see if there is any weird things I need to watch for and
Anything else I should just go ahead and do while its apart that far

Thanks

Some would say...
- Replace the base gasket
- Replace valve stem seals
- Use OEM gaskets

That's what I would do anyway.

I’m actually doing this very thing! Only mine is a 1980, not 1982. You will need
- new gaskets as mentioned, PLUS a new gasket for the cam chain tensioner. You have to take off the tensioner to do this job, and a new gasket is needed to put it back on.
- you will need one whole heck of a lot of time for scraping off the old gaskets. You MIGHT get lucky and they’ll peel off. Could happen, most likely won’t.
- likely best of buying a complete gasket kit, where you get all the gaskets. They are not expensive, and likely save money coz you also get new oil seals, which are handy to have.
- be sure to get good gasket sealer to apply to the gaskets. The instructions do recommend that.
- there are a LOT of locating dowels locating one part to to its partner. Over time, varnish and rust and whatnot build up on the dowels, so they no longer fit easily back together. Easy (but slow) to remedy. Get emery cloth or similar to polish the dowels so they slot easily back together. If you don’t, they MIGHT shove together, but are also likely to leak oil if they do. Sigh. Clean them, save the grief.
- you might have to pull the alternator stator off and refit. You’ll definitely have to if It’s leaking oil out the crankshaft seal. Those engines are listed as use an M18 stud as a puller, and I’m sure many do. BUT your engine might be like mine and use an M16 stud - surprise! The good news part of this is that neither stud is expensive or hard to get. They are about $20 on fleaBay, and good quality too. Check the hole size by removing the alternator bolt (not difficult). It might be M18; it might be M16. Check first and order the right one, saves aggravation.
- you will need some way of holding the crankshaft from turning while you loosen and tighten various bolts. Dedicated holders are costly; many DIY methods are less expensive, read up on YouTube and choose your route.

For working on the engine, Z1 Enterprises sells a clutch holding tool, their part #200-2716.
Looks like a good tool for $30. They say it fits nearly every Kawi made, along with the 750. I ordered one, should be here soonish to work on mine.

It’s an EBC brand tool, and since EBC sells worldwide, should be available anywhere