TOPIC:

Nevermind!

KZ650 is running great after the top end rebuild.

Hope everyone is having a good weekend. I rode the bike like crazy today!

DanMadBoy wrote:

Nevermind!

KZ650 is running great after the top end rebuild.

Hope everyone is having a good weekend. I rode the bike like crazy today!

Does that mean you won't post pics of  the rollers, you and the bike? 

Steve
 

SWest wrote:

DanMadBoy wrote:

Nevermind!

KZ650 is running great after the top end rebuild.

Hope everyone is having a good weekend. I rode the bike like crazy today!

Does that mean you won't post pics of  the rollers, you and the bike? 

Steve


 

I did post a photo of the bike, but some ppl in this forum are so hostile, I took it down.
FYI Im not yet 30, in grad school and have a KZ650. Thats about all i got.

Youve been helpful though, and I appreciate it. Only problem I have now is, sometimes when Im at a light and it turns green, I roll the throttle and the bike shudders before it starts going.

DanMadBoy wrote:

 

Youve been helpful though, and I appreciate it. Only problem I have now is, sometimes when Im at a light and it turns green, I roll the throttle and the bike shudders before it starts going.

Could be carbs.  Could be ignition.  Hard to say.

Please check the "things to know" thread linked in my signature.  It details out a bunch of things to check.  Something may prove helpful.

And with the bike coming off a rebuild, you should retorque the cylinder head and check the valve clearances after a few hundred miles.  Most OEM's say something like 600 miles.  And if you find the cylinder head nuts loose, tighten them and check them again in 200 miles more, until subsequent checks show the nuts are staying tight.

Nessism wrote:

DanMadBoy wrote:

 

Youve been helpful though, and I appreciate it. Only problem I have now is, sometimes when Im at a light and it turns green, I roll the throttle and the bike shudders before it starts going.

Could be carbs.  Could be ignition.  Hard to say.

Please check the "things to know" thread linked in my signature.  It details out a bunch of things to check.  Something may prove helpful.

And with the bike coming off a rebuild, you should retorque the cylinder head and check the valve clearances after a few hundred miles.  Most OEM's say something like 600 miles.  And if you find the cylinder head nuts loose, tighten them and check them again in 200 miles more, until subsequent checks show the nuts are staying tight.
 

Thanks for this. The carbs were in tip top shape before the top end was done, so I dont believe the problem lies with them. Maybe fuel delivery or ignition? Anyway, my uncle's friend who did the work is on a 2 week cruise with his Mrs now, so I will have to figure it out.

Could the stuttering be down to things just settling after the top end rebuild?

=19.5pxhi not to take this off thread but ref retorque i thought that if a multi layer head gasket was used it applies ,due to heat cycles but how was this done when all these z were new back in the day  

david richard wrote:

=19.5pxhi not to take this off thread but ref retorque i thought that if a multi layer head gasket was used it applies ,due to heat cycles but how was this done when all these z were new back in the day  

If it's an MLS gasket then no re-torque needed.
If it's a normal fiber or copper etc then re-torque after cooling on first start up and then again a few hundred miles later.

Thanks for responding

david richard wrote:

=19.5pxhi not to take this off thread but ref retorque i thought that if a multi layer head gasket was used it applies ,due to heat cycles but how was this done when all these z were new back in the day  
"Back in the day" at the Lincoln factory, the guy who unpackaged the engines from Japan retorqued the cylinder head nuts. The engines were run up in Japan as part of the final inspection, but I was never told how long they were run. Hard to believe that they were run long enough to reach full operating temperature, but IDK.  I believe the first MLS  head gasket was the liquid cooled 1984 GPZ900.

Mike
 

THANKS TO ZED1015 AND KRAZEE1SORRY  TO HIJACK THIS BUT IS IT BEST TO REMOVE THE CAM COVER TO DO ALL THE BOLTS SO ITS EVEN TORQUE 

No need to remove the valve cover to re-torque the head nuts!

The 650 head has two bolts in the cam tunnel.  These are the ones, that on later year 650's, and the 750/4's, that are stretch to yield.