Is this normal??

Hi folks,Still building my 1982 kZ750 L-2 custom, it’s taking for ever!
After a bottom and top end rebuild Finally got the engine started and it’s making a tapping/knocking noise, to my ear it’s coming from cylinder 1/2 side, top end.

Engine spec.
CV carbs with dyno jet kit
 Air pods
4-1 exhaust 
New cam chain
Manual chain tensioner 
 Honed the cylinders lapped the valve seats. 
 low compression on all 4- 100psi not 100% sure I checked the rings alignment or wright way up or if there within spec. Also think I have an air leak from somewhere.

 First thought was cam chain. Adjusted  finger tight then back quarter turn on manual tensioner. Second thought, clearances to big equalling tappet hitting cam. All clearances are mid range of spec tolerances. Triple checked the timing. Not sure what else it could be, don’t think piston rings if the where in upside down would make this noise and as I have no experience or comparison I don’t no what’s normal. Please have a listen to below video, I no idle is a little high. Any help gratefully received. 

Hard to tell as the idle is too high.

Are the carbs vacuum synced? are the clutch pucks worn?

Compression after break in needs to be +150PSI in these smaller engines, I would not worry about that till you get some miles on it. Have you put miles on it ? as you need to re torque head after the first ride.

Leak down tester would tell more than compression test at this point.

Hello,

 Thanks for your reply, 
No not put any miles on it. Did balance the carbs all 10 hg should be around 20 I believe. So could relate to low compression but think this is a separate issue and not related to noise. 

Don’t no what a clutch puck is but will find out. 

Have attached a previous video before I adjusted the clearances to get them as close to mid range as I could, but maybe you can hear noise better. 

I'm not an expert, but to me it doesn't sound bad.  The valves likely got settled in as the engine ran, so you may want to check the lash again.  

About the chain, I snug the adjustment bolt between lobe lifts where the tension eases up slightly.  Then back it off a little and lock it there when it feels just right.  

Thanks Daveo,

I will re do the chain tension as you suggested mate. 

what do you mean by check the lash?
sorry every days a school day

Second video sounds like a exhaust leak, there is not too much "ticking". These motors are pretty noisy on a good day so maybe just ride it and don't worry so much till you are at least at the point of re torquing the head.

If everything is sealed up properly you should have more vacuum. Are your rubber manifolds new?

Clutch pucks are the rubber dampers in the sealed clutch hub, they do wear and can inflict ticking noise.

They do not run very well at 100 PSI, get some heat into it and bed the rings. Like I mentioned a leak down test will confirm any sealing issues (ring/valve)

Yes bought new rubbers and used a little liquid gasket to prevent leaks. Definitely sounds top end and could well be coming from exhaust manifolds, might re fit these and see if that changes anything. 

Will also look into the leak down test as not familiar with this. Thanks mate 

After a top end job like you did, lapping the valves can make the valve lash (clearances) close up a bit and that in itself can cause some noise and lowers compression slightly (zero clearance hangs valve open) Taking the cam cover off a few times within the first 40-50 miles is not unheard of.

Leak down test forces air into the motor and will show if you have leaks in the rings or valves when cycling the engine thru the various stroke cycles (by hand with power off) it is hands down the way to find issue like bent oil rings etc.

Yea leak down tester is ordered and on route. Will refit exhaust headers to see if that changes the noise. 

Wish I had paid closer attention to the manual reference checking tolerance of the piston rings. 

live and learn