Valve clearance measurement kz750 H2 1981

Hi everyone,

I would like your opinion in order to clarify something regarding valve clearance measurement on a Kz750 H2 of 1981. After consulting various posts on the forum, I gathered that to measure the valve clearance, the lobes of the camshaft need their pointy end to be opposite to the valve (correct ?). If that is the correct procedure, then you do one valve (let's say #1 inlet), then turn the crankshaft and measure #2 inlet, turn and measure #4 inlet, turn and finally measure #3 inlet. And then do it again for exhaust valves. This is the procedure I followed based on the forum posts.

However, if I read my manual (which is a Kawasaki service manual for my exact model), they seem to have an entirely different procedure that doesn't take into account the lobes having their pointy end opposite to the valve. They also warn to follow exactly the procedure as written in order to avoid incorrect measurements. They say to turn the crankshaft and align the T mark of 1-4 with the timing mark. Then to measure either #1 and #3 inlet or #2 and #4, then turn until the next T mark, measure the exhausts of the previously measured inlets, then turn until until T mark of 1-4 and measure the last two inlets and finally turn until the next T and measure the last two exhausts. I am confused by this as they never say anything about the position of the lobes and they even have a drawing of it where the pointy end is aligned with the surface of the cylinder head. I posted pictures of the manual procedure below, if my explanation is not clear.

So, what would you recommend ? Because I have very different valve clearance readings whether I do one procedure or the other.

Sorry for this long beginner's text...

Cheers
 

You can use the "point the lobe away from the bucket method" but if you do it's important to adjust to the top end of the  clearance spec.  Reason being if the adjacent valve is depressed it will skew the cam in the journal clearance which can fool you into thinking there is more lash clearance than will be the case when the engine is running.

BTW, I think the late year 1000/1100 manual method (same as Suzuki GS method) is best.  This method positions the cams so the valves are adjusted in adjacent pairs, with both on the base circle at the same time.  This method avoids the skewing of the cam in the journal clearance issue.

I believe the folks who wrote the genuine Kawasaki manual had more than just a little understanding on the best way to adjust the valves.  Ed

Thank you both for your quick replies, really appreciate it.
Good to know that both method work and that the most precise one would be the service manual one.
 

This is THE BEST method to adjust the valves.  Again, it's the method for the later year big KZ's and the GS Suzuki's, the engine of which is very similar to the KZ's only arguably more durable.

This method is dead easy to remember and you don't need to look at the T and F marks on the timing plate.

1) Rotate engine until #1 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward, parallel to the gasket surface, then measure #1 & #2 exhaust valves.
2) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward.........................................................................#4 & #3 exhaust valves.
3) Rotate engine until #1 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the gasket surface, then measure #1 & #2 intake valves.
4) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing straight up................................................................................#4 $ #3 intake valves.
 

Duly noted Nessism ! Thank you for the detailed explanation, I didn't really understand it in your last message but this is definitely clear now.