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Starter clutch removal
- Cfoux85
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- 1982 Kawasaki kz 750e
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01 Sep 2021 19:01 #854704
by Cfoux85
Starter clutch removal was created by Cfoux85
I've seen a post about being able to remove the starter clutch from the bottom of a 1982 Kawasaki kz750e but I can't find the post or maybe I'm just so tired from working on my bike. I just want to ride this thing once lol. Can someone please help me with getting my motorcycle running finally lol
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- Nessism
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01 Sep 2021 19:31 #854707
by Nessism
Replied by Nessism on topic Starter clutch removal
A lot of parts need to come off including the exhaust, sump cover, engine covers, and then the secondary shaft and starter clutch. Doable for sure, but a good deal of work.
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- TexasKZ
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01 Sep 2021 21:37 #854714
by TexasKZ
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
Replied by TexasKZ on topic Starter clutch removal
I guess you can ignore my post in the other thread.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- Cfoux85
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01 Sep 2021 22:47 #854716
by Cfoux85
Replied by Cfoux85 on topic Starter clutch removal
Yeah I got the exhaust off and clutch lever and cover, the oil pan but I haven't taken the rotor/stator cover, or the other side covers
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- hugo
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02 Sep 2021 01:29 - 02 Sep 2021 01:41 #854724
by hugo
Replied by hugo on topic Starter clutch removal
You are double posting and that makes more difficult as it spreads the answers.
Generalities:...and I mean, these are generalities.
...would not attempt w/out a Factory Manual and see what's involved before starting anything. Replace whole starting clutch including races, not just springs and rollers.
....the outside engine covers are held by bolts, and there is not reasons they should be tight. Oil pan, full exhaust, oil pump, entire tranny clutch have to come out. You will need an impact gun for big inner basket clutch nut (get a new nut)....and a basket holder too.
Secondary shaft is held on right by plate and staked screws, ...you will need an impact screwdriver for those.
Secondary shaft is extracted from left to right, and starter clutch drops through the oil pan opening.. Might as well get the new rubber dampers inside the starting clutch hub.
Starter Clutch can be substituted by Sprag Clutch from the ZR-7, much stronger, but secondary shaft and oil pump would also be needed from the ZR-7, which makes it a much more expensive proposition.
Generalities:...and I mean, these are generalities.
...would not attempt w/out a Factory Manual and see what's involved before starting anything. Replace whole starting clutch including races, not just springs and rollers.
....the outside engine covers are held by bolts, and there is not reasons they should be tight. Oil pan, full exhaust, oil pump, entire tranny clutch have to come out. You will need an impact gun for big inner basket clutch nut (get a new nut)....and a basket holder too.
Secondary shaft is held on right by plate and staked screws, ...you will need an impact screwdriver for those.
Secondary shaft is extracted from left to right, and starter clutch drops through the oil pan opening.. Might as well get the new rubber dampers inside the starting clutch hub.
Starter Clutch can be substituted by Sprag Clutch from the ZR-7, much stronger, but secondary shaft and oil pump would also be needed from the ZR-7, which makes it a much more expensive proposition.
Last edit: 02 Sep 2021 01:41 by hugo.
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- Cfoux85
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02 Sep 2021 02:30 #854726
by Cfoux85
Replied by Cfoux85 on topic Starter clutch removal
My bad and I really appreciate your help, my bike only has 4700 miles on it but the previous owner didn't ride it from what my dad said which he is the one who gave it to me. He said the original owner was trying to modify it somehow and took the air box out and installed the air filter pods and count figure out why the fuel was filling up the crankcase. My dad said he couldn't figure it out himself and for being a Harley Davidson mechanic and a motorcycle junkie, I couldn't understand why he couldn't figure it out himself. I figured that issue out within a day but every time I get it running, something else seems to go wrong. The issues now is either the starter is burnt up from me cranking on it not knowing that wasnt good for it or the starter clutch isn't catching and releasing when trying to crank. I've been riding all my life but cleaning bikes was all the work I've done on a motorcycle, my dad would usually have my motorcycle fixed before I could even think about working on it. So I've got a starter clutch ordered just in case I guess and I've been using Valveline 10w 40 4stroke motor oil in it. I haven't even been able to ride it yet, I've just been dumping my money on guesses so far from what I've gotten out of what I've been reading on this site and the repair manual I've downloaded from here. So any other tips or anything is highly appreciated
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- hugo
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02 Sep 2021 14:15 - 02 Sep 2021 14:18 #854744
by hugo
Replied by hugo on topic Starter clutch removal
Hard to accept the starter clutch would go bad with only 4700 miles. If the cranking motor works, but starting clutch is slipping, the engine would crank, but there would be a high pitch, loose marbles sound, as the starter clutch slips.
.....most of the time, if you keep trying engine would catch and run, if that is the problem. Usually the starter clutch just does not quit altogether, gets symptoms that grow worse overtime....but in general, gives you time to think things through....and still ride the bike..
..if you push the start button, and there is nothing,.....you may have other problems.
.....most of the time, if you keep trying engine would catch and run, if that is the problem. Usually the starter clutch just does not quit altogether, gets symptoms that grow worse overtime....but in general, gives you time to think things through....and still ride the bike..
..if you push the start button, and there is nothing,.....you may have other problems.
Last edit: 02 Sep 2021 14:18 by hugo.
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- 650ed
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02 Sep 2021 14:43 #854747
by 650ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Replied by 650ed on topic Starter clutch removal
Exactly! My 1977 KZ650 has more than 62,000 miles and the starter clutch still works fine. What oil are you using? The wrong oil can create problems. EdHard to accept the starter clutch would go bad with only 4700 miles.
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Cfoux85
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02 Sep 2021 22:00 #854759
by Cfoux85
Replied by Cfoux85 on topic Starter clutch removal
Yes sir, what you just described is what it was doing
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- Cfoux85
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02 Sep 2021 22:03 #854760
by Cfoux85
Replied by Cfoux85 on topic Starter clutch removal
I've been using Valveline 4 stroke 10w-40. Should I try something else
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- hugo
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03 Sep 2021 01:20 - 03 Sep 2021 01:34 #854763
by hugo
Replied by hugo on topic Starter clutch removal
Yes sir, what you just described is what it was doing
I take it, you are responding that pushing the starter button does nothing,.......then you may have jumped to conclussions about the starter clutch and should start there... as.........is electrical power available...??.....is it getting to crank motor?...is solenoid clicking?......so and so.
Adquiring any vehicle this old, does not mean you can simply ride/drive into the sunset for cheap.......usually they require refreshing, TLC, and sometimes downright restoration....a bit of a passion for it.......sorry, but had to say that.........at least for me; working on them is 50% of the fun.
Last edit: 03 Sep 2021 01:34 by hugo.
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- TexasKZ
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03 Sep 2021 06:00 #854768
by TexasKZ
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
Replied by TexasKZ on topic Starter clutch removal
When replying to a specific post, especially in a thread that several people are posting in, it is a good idea to click the QUOTE button instead of the REPLY button. When you do that you will see the quoted post at the top of the window. Click or tap well below the quotation, and a red dashed line will appear. Near the right margin, there will be a left-pointing arrow. Click it so that your cursor jumps down below the lie, and begin typing there. This will insure that your reply is visually separated from the quoted material and what you are responding to will be clear to everybody else.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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