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The cam chain tensioner on the J-engine, again!
- Jonas_Z1000j
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11 Jul 2021 12:47 #851576
by Jonas_Z1000j
Z1000 J2 -82 not so running restoration object anymore
Z900RS -21 Green/Yellow
The cam chain tensioner on the J-engine, again! was created by Jonas_Z1000j
Hi! First of all, sorry for posting another thread about the cam chain tensioner
I have had the valve cover off and adjusted my valves. Reason being that I have some noise from the engine and I dont know when the valves was checked the last time. 6 valves had to be adjusted, 5 had <0,02mm gap and one had above 0,15. Now all is close to 0,1 mm=) Big thanks to all the valve adjustment threads here! It went like a breeze including heli coiling exhaust clamp bolts.
I dont believe valves is the reason though (from reading alot here), but the cam chain.
The noise is strongest when accelerating from low speed (maybe easiest to hear then?). At cruise, it goes away.
When I was to put the valve cover back on, I measured the cross wedge sticking out to 3,9 mm. I then removed it.
I then installed the cover, and reinstalled the cross wedge, still 3,9 mm!(it should have been more now when the cover guide is pressing down on it). I then put some pressure on it, turning around the crankshaft. No difference. Clymer manual says correct measurement here is 7,5 mm. Is this correct? Clymer seem to have some typos from what I have read here.
Removed the valve cover, then the cross wedge. I then pressed down the cam chain between the cams (more than the guide can do), no difference still. (Maybe I should have turned the crank as well when appying pressure to the cam chain to push out the tensioner?)
This must indicate that the cam tensioner is stuck or has maxed out possibly not applying the correct tension on the chain?
The cam chain, center pin to center pin 20 link measurement is 127 mm. Clymer says max is 128,9 mm. Im not sure I took this measurement correctly? How to you do it?
The chain guide in the valve cover had hardly no wear at all.
The condition on the engine is unknown. Bike has 70 000 KM on odo. I have cleaned and rebuilt the carb and done a service basically.
What is the next step here? removing the tensioner to see if its anything abviously wrong with it?
Thanks for your help,
I have had the valve cover off and adjusted my valves. Reason being that I have some noise from the engine and I dont know when the valves was checked the last time. 6 valves had to be adjusted, 5 had <0,02mm gap and one had above 0,15. Now all is close to 0,1 mm=) Big thanks to all the valve adjustment threads here! It went like a breeze including heli coiling exhaust clamp bolts.
I dont believe valves is the reason though (from reading alot here), but the cam chain.
The noise is strongest when accelerating from low speed (maybe easiest to hear then?). At cruise, it goes away.
When I was to put the valve cover back on, I measured the cross wedge sticking out to 3,9 mm. I then removed it.
I then installed the cover, and reinstalled the cross wedge, still 3,9 mm!(it should have been more now when the cover guide is pressing down on it). I then put some pressure on it, turning around the crankshaft. No difference. Clymer manual says correct measurement here is 7,5 mm. Is this correct? Clymer seem to have some typos from what I have read here.
Removed the valve cover, then the cross wedge. I then pressed down the cam chain between the cams (more than the guide can do), no difference still. (Maybe I should have turned the crank as well when appying pressure to the cam chain to push out the tensioner?)
This must indicate that the cam tensioner is stuck or has maxed out possibly not applying the correct tension on the chain?
The cam chain, center pin to center pin 20 link measurement is 127 mm. Clymer says max is 128,9 mm. Im not sure I took this measurement correctly? How to you do it?
The chain guide in the valve cover had hardly no wear at all.
The condition on the engine is unknown. Bike has 70 000 KM on odo. I have cleaned and rebuilt the carb and done a service basically.
What is the next step here? removing the tensioner to see if its anything abviously wrong with it?
Thanks for your help,
Z1000 J2 -82 not so running restoration object anymore
Z900RS -21 Green/Yellow
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- TexasKZ
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11 Jul 2021 20:37 #851600
by TexasKZ
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
Replied by TexasKZ on topic The cam chain tensioner on the J-engine, again!
The first two things I would do is take the tensioner apart and make sure it is clean and functioning smoothly, then I would consult the genuine factory service manual for installation and such.
www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf
www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
The following user(s) said Thank You: Jonas_Z1000j
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12 Jul 2021 06:44 #851604
by Jonas_Z1000j
Z1000 J2 -82 not so running restoration object anymore
Z900RS -21 Green/Yellow
Replied by Jonas_Z1000j on topic The cam chain tensioner on the J-engine, again!
Thanks for the link to the original manual.
I removed the carb then the tensioner this morning. Found out that my 2 year old airbox rubber inlets already has dry cracks in them. Lousy aftermarket parts...
It doesnt seem to be any problem with the tensioner however, it can be depressed smoothly and looked clean. It is not maxed out either when the side push rod is measuring 3,9 mm. It can continue till its 0 mm, and still lock it seems.
Unfortunately, I dropped the small dowel pin into the floor drain next to my work bench
I found a source in Sweden (where I live) for it and also the main spring pushing in the cam chain.
I cant find anything about this 7,5 mm that the Clymer manual speaks of in the factory manual. Also, it seems a bit weird that you can state a measurement for something that is made to adjust according to wear. Anyone have a comment on this? (the protrusion of the side cross wedge rod, dont know the term for it)
thanks,
I removed the carb then the tensioner this morning. Found out that my 2 year old airbox rubber inlets already has dry cracks in them. Lousy aftermarket parts...
It doesnt seem to be any problem with the tensioner however, it can be depressed smoothly and looked clean. It is not maxed out either when the side push rod is measuring 3,9 mm. It can continue till its 0 mm, and still lock it seems.
Unfortunately, I dropped the small dowel pin into the floor drain next to my work bench
I found a source in Sweden (where I live) for it and also the main spring pushing in the cam chain.
I cant find anything about this 7,5 mm that the Clymer manual speaks of in the factory manual. Also, it seems a bit weird that you can state a measurement for something that is made to adjust according to wear. Anyone have a comment on this? (the protrusion of the side cross wedge rod, dont know the term for it)
thanks,
Z1000 J2 -82 not so running restoration object anymore
Z900RS -21 Green/Yellow
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.