Cam cap threads threads upgrade

cam cap threads/bolts

When the engine is old and bolts is old, I guess Its a possibility to damage the threads or twist off the bolts...?

what is the best upgrade to avoid these problem?

A good torque wrench!

Is steel on aluminum.   It is not because is old, but how many times has been retorqued. ..how many cycles..  Inevitably, aluminum wears against steel.   But in this case, the cam caps bolt take little torque.   Barely more than on oil sealing gasket.    I good sensitive torque wrench should be enough.    

...here torque is so low, I use the dial and bending-arm type, rather than the 'clicking' one.   I prefer to see the dial

There is a lot of stress on the threads when installing the cams because you are fighting against the valve springs.  I like to clamp the cams down into the bearing journals using a pair of vice grips before installing the caps like shown in the Suzuki GS manual.



 

Along with Nessism's suggestion, I clean the threads of the bolts, and I only torque to 96 in/lbs, as opposed to what the manual suggests (in my case, I believe it's 144 in/lbs). 

If you want peace of mind, you could have steel threaded inserts installed, but I think of that as a "when it's necessary" modification.

I remember seeing someone use studs and nuts instead of the bolts, and while some pointed out that the nuts would cause damage if they ever came off, it may be okay if you match the stud heights to the valve cover. I'm not sure what torque value this arrangement would need, though. 

I've used barrel inserts to repair some pulled threads. Hard to do on the bike but if the head is off it's pretty easy. The best thing to do is be very careful and don't use the bolts to pull the cam down. 

Whole thread on the subject here .  kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/607517-stripp...nder-buckets?start=0

wrote:

Along with Nessism's suggestion, I clean the threads of the bolts, and I only torque to 96 in/lbs, as opposed to what the manual suggests (in my case, I believe it's 144 in/lbs). 

If you want peace of mind, you could have steel threaded inserts installed, but I think of that as a "when it's necessary" modification.

I remember seeing someone use studs and nuts instead of the bolts, and while some pointed out that the nuts would cause damage if they ever came off, it may be okay if you match the stud heights to the valve cover. I'm not sure what torque value this arrangement would need, though. 


 

You only clean the bolts, not the wholes?

thank you all!

correct summary?:
1. clean the bolts (and whole?)
2. Push the cam down as  Nessism  advise
3. don’t torque to service manual spec, do 50 in/lbs lower then spec.

These shall avoid any issues then?