TOPIC:

ken19 wrote: @Nessism: Checked it out and you're correct. The blasting soda is larger.

@gamma: Please only positive oriented comments.... Those guides are okay!!,,,, hell, you're probably right. Worse, I don't have a clue how to check them much less how to correctly replace them out.

What is up with typing @ before user names?

Nessism wrote:

hardrockminer wrote: For your valve guides, based on your comments I think it's best to take it to a machine shop. And be careful which guides you purchase...if possible go OEM.

What about APE guides?

I've never used them. But I know the OEM guides are good for 80k miles and/or 45 years. Just going on my personal experience and indirectly warning to look carefully at what's for sale on ebay.

@Texas The Glom symbol means (at) or (directed at). Old school I guess. I'm vintage. A habit.... I'll try to break. It seemed shorter then "Texas wrote..."

@Nessism: Gee,,, that looks simple enough. All I need is a new valve and a dial indicator. Thanks! More cool tools. I actually do have an old school magnetic mount dial indicator... I'll see if I can't rig it up. Where did you find that. I went page by page in my manual and some how missed it.

ken19 wrote: @Texas The Glom symbol means (at) or (directed at). Old school I guess. I'm vintage. A habit.... I'll try to break. It seemed shorter then "Texas wrote..."

@Nessism: Gee,,, that looks simple enough. All I need is a new valve and a dial indicator. Thanks! More cool tools. I actually do have an old school magnetic mount dial indicator... I'll see if I can't rig it up. Where did you find that. I went page by page in my manual and some how missed it.

If you click the Quote button instead of the Reply button, you get the above, without having to type anything.
I am probably quite a bit more "old school" (old) than you, and I have never seen that.

TexasKZ wrote:

ken19 wrote: @Texas The Glom symbol means (at) or (directed at). Old school I guess. I'm vintage. A habit.... I'll try to break. It seemed shorter then "Texas wrote..."

@Nessism: Gee,,, that looks simple enough. All I need is a new valve and a dial indicator. Thanks! More cool tools. I actually do have an old school magnetic mount dial indicator... I'll see if I can't rig it up. Where did you find that. I went page by page in my manual and some how missed it

If you click the Quote button instead of the Reply button, you get the above, without having to type anything.
I am probably quite a bit more "old school" (old) than you, and I have never seen that.

Hmmmm,,, thanks. You must be in your mid to late 70s or so as I am 72. Used to use the glom on compuserv and some of the early bulletin boards.

Nessism wrote:

Measured about .010in using the old valve (Ex) which equates to .254mm and is out of spec. But I could get different readings with the valve at different heights. A new valve may actually bring it in to spec.

.254 rounds off to .25.

Soda will not remove carbon. Its used more as a finishing medium after cleaning.

Being around 2 strokes for almost 40 years, Im familiar with build up. The old Permatex spray gadket remover works, as well as spray oven cleaner and heavy duty psint remover. Follow up with mineral spirits. Then you can hit it with soda if you wish.

I was up late watching the Car Wizard channel on youtube.
He uses a chemical from BG products to clean an Audi S6's intake ports.
The trouble is finding the chemical as it's not available to the general public.

forward to 5:12

OK! Carbon for the amateur. Tough stuff! You need AIR! lots of cfm! Lots of 1/4" grinders! Lots of 3M SCOTCH STUFF!!
But start of by chipping away with a small chisel type things! ALWAYS HAVE SAFETY GLASSES ON! Clean chip grind away.
Then I always glass bead everything I work on. Been 40 years so far! I took the last picture today! for another customer.
Nothing is easy! And I also use RYOBI! When the compressor is building back up and cooling! I use the battery ryobi items.
3M, SCOTCH is the best stuff going! Not Cheap! But it is 100% better than chi-comm crap at the chi-comm harbor store!
You get what you pay for! And it takes money to make money!
I do buy and throw out the chi-comm grinders monthly! take back and get free ones! It's easier to change the wheels and whatever. Keep 6-7 on hand!
JMO!

Don't want to sound like a cop out or steal your thunder but since it is already off... I would just take it to a competent machine shop. Most have a heated dip tank and blaster on site. Benefit is they can clean, cut valve seats, surface/deck and check/replace valve guides. Valve faces can be cut to a point but i don't like a knife-edge on my valves margin. OEM J valves are a bit cheaper and chances are will be needed. with that many miles. OEM valve guides are easier to ream than the APE for some shops. You could outfit yourself with all the tool goodies but if this a one shot project well it may/will not be advantageous. I do this on a daily basis so i pick my battles. I can paint, i can weld but i know persons that have done it for years on a daily basis so they are naturally better at it so i leave it to them. Just have to find a person that takes pride in their workmanship, they are out there! Any-Hoot, just my 2-cents

TexasKZ wrote:

ken19 wrote: @Texas The Glom symbol means (at) or (directed at). Old school I guess. I'm vintage. A habit.... I'll try to break. It seemed shorter then "Texas wrote..."

@Nessism: Gee,,, that looks simple enough. All I need is a new valve and a dial indicator. Thanks! More cool tools. I actually do have an old school magnetic mount dial indicator... I'll see if I can't rig it up. Where did you find that. I went page by page in my manual and some how missed it.

If you click the Quote button instead of the Reply button, you get the above, without having to type anything.
I am probably quite a bit more "old school" (old) than you, and I have never seen that.

It's used in (for example) Microsoft Teams chat to direct a comment to a specific person.