1982 KZ1000K2 (LTD) Weights and Measurements

After quite a long time (drawn away by a '80 CBX), I am starting to fiddle around with my 82 LTD 1000. As time and money permit, will be working to:

• Weigh and Measure things
• Lighten and Improve components
• Freshen up the frame bearings and bushings

I am thinking of trying to make it into a track day bike instead of going out and getting an SV650. Why? I don't know... we all know the SV, GSXR, ZRX, Versys, etc. would all be the smarter option.

But anyway. I am starting this thread to document some weights of various pieces as they come off. Will also document some sizes of components with the idea that a consolidated listing might be handy for reference.

ITEM	WEIGHT
Head with CAMS, valves, spark plugs, intake rubber, but no valve cover	32 pounds

Inspiration:
badcurator.org/resources/Magazines/CW_Oc...e-Lawson-Replica.pdf

badcurator.org/resources/Magazines/CW_Oc...e-Lawson-Replica.pdf

Notice the swingarm and eccentric look a lot like a ZRX1100 swringarm, which I am considering as an upgrade.

Also, see the image showing the 8 plug head? Fast By Gast would do those at one time. I have no idea how the ignition would be set up for that. But I think the point was to reduce spark advance from 35+ down to maybe 30 and still avoid detonation. At least that is what I think I remember reading somewhere else...

The article states that the wheels for the EL bike and ELR replicas were magnesium. I will be weighing comstars and comparing to the weights for the stock cast wheels on the LTD. Anathema I know, but if there is a significant weight savings and if the bolts will work, I may put on a set of 18" boomerangs. Will document the weights above once I have them.

kpier998 wrote: Also, see the image showing the 8 plug head? Fast By Gast would do those at one time. I have no idea how the ignition would be set up for that.

The KZ1000S1 (production race bike) came with a dual-plug head. It has four 2-output coils, one for each cylinder. Not exactly comparable, as they were also CDI, and that bike had no alternator. But as long as your igniter can handle the current, you should be able to double the coil packs and the ignition would still work the same.

The article states that the wheels for the EL bike and ELR replicas were magnesium. [/quote]

I really don't think the ELR (KZ1000R1) had magnesium wheels. I'm guessing they were aluminum. The phots I've seen of the KZ1000S1 have 3-spoke Dymag wheels, which were probably magnesium.

Oops. I didn't actually read the article first.

They call the S1 an Eddy Lawson Replica, which I guess I understand. I suppose that makes the KZ1000R1 (the street version) the Replica Replica (ELRR?).

The dual spark plug ignition system did brain fart me.:blink: :blink: :blink: Who is right?

That's a really cool diagram. I've never seen the wiring diagram for the S1 setup. I'm guessing they have each coil feed two cylinders as a form of redundancy? If one coil fails, the engine still runs fine.

So with high compression and turbo engines, they talk about blowing out the spark. Is that simply a failure to light the charge, or does the arc not actually happen? And with wasted spark, if the arc doesn't happen on one plug, seems like it's not going to happen on the other plug that shares that coil. Is that the whole idea of dual-spark heads? Double your chances of lighting the charge?

DOHC wrote:
That's a really cool diagram. I've never seen the wiring diagram for the S1 setup. I'm guessing they have each coil feed two cylinders as a form of redundancy? If one coil fails, the engine still runs fine.

Yes, you are right, the DynaTec diagram coil #1 and #2 ignit cyl# 1 and #4 main and sub spark plug and coil #2 and #3 ignit cyl #2 and #3 main and sub spark plug!
but, what´s wrong here???
The KZ1000S diagram shows
coil #1 ignit cyl# 1 and #2 main spark plug
coil #2 ignit cyl# 1 and #2 sub spark plug
coil #3 ignit cyl# 3 and #4 sub spark plug
coil #4 ignit cyl # 3 and #4 main spark plug
Did i miss something, be a litttle confused???

The dynaTek configuration seems obvious. It just doubles/mirrors the single-plug setup.

The S1 does seem odd. I don't know the true firing order (1243 or 1342), but in either case 1 and 2 are only 180 crank degrees apart. I think that means that when one is firing, the other is heading towards bdc and is filled with fuel. Maybe there isn't much risk of ignition at or below atmospheric pressure, especially with race fuel?

Maybe they thought it would make the plug wire routing simpler and cleaner?

DOHC wrote: Oops. I didn't actually read the article first.

They call the S1 an Eddy Lawson Replica, which I guess I understand. I suppose that makes the KZ1000R1 (the street version) the Replica Replica (ELRR?).

I guess that makes the ZRX the ELRRR :lol:

TexasKZ wrote: I guess that makes the ZRX the ELRRR :lol:

And the z900RS Cafe the ELRRRR?

Tim the Tool Man model?

Additional observations added. By the way, I can't seem to edit the original post on page 1, so adding as I go...

ITEM	WEIGHT
Head with CAMS, valves, spark plugs, intake rubber, but no valve cover	32 pounds
Drive Chain Adjuster with Bolt, locknut - Per Side	6.36 Oz
Rear wheel with 130/90-16 tire, sprocket/carrier axle bolts, brake rotor, chain adjusters, washers, nuts & spacers	48 pounds

I have to get a scale that can measure more than 6 grams for the axle bolt and some other items and is more accurate than bathroom scales for the items between a pound and 50 pounds.

For comparison, parts off a 1980 CBX:
CBX rear wheel with all the similar hardware came in 2 pounds lighter than the LTD1000 tire/wheel/etc. combo at 46 pounds vs 48 pounds. The LTD wheel has a 130/90-16 Bridgestone Spitfire 11r and the rotor is factory drilled.
The CBX has a Comstar with a 120/90-18 Michelin Pilot Activ and the rotor is heavily drilled. I really expected the Comstar to be significantly lighter, not just 2 pounds. I will plan to measure the sprocket, carrier etc. independently to see whether the difference is in those items or the wheel itself. And will need to remove the tire at some point to weigh the bare wheels and compare.

The KZ has two holes drilled in the chain adjusters from the factory. Kawasaki adjuster, bare is 4.93 ounces vs Honda CBX at 5.99 ounces. However the bolts and nuts on the Honda are lighter even though they are the same bolt thread size. Nut is slightly narrower and bolt is slightly shorter. So, shorter bolts and thinner locknut can save a little. I think the LTD lightening holes could be drilled out a bit more to save some extra weight.

So far, this is indicating that swapping to some German spec boomerang Comstars from a VF1000f might not yield the weight savings that I thought they would.