What else to do now that these parts are out?

Hello all! Wasn't too sure where to put this so don't flame the hell out of me. If I need to move it, I certainly will. I have 77' KZ650 I'm starting to work on. I have removed the battery box, airbox, carbs, and carb holders (with two sheared bolts that I'm getting ready to extract). Thank goodness they are the outer bolts and I have a straight shot at them!! Sending the carbs out to be done. While I have this gapping hole there, what else should I be looking at while I have the room? I was thinking at least the cam chain tensioner and is there anything beneath that cover with the port from the airbox. Any help or wisdom would greatly be appreciated! Thanks gents.

In addition to general surface cleaning, it might be a good time to carefully clean all of the electrical connectors in the area. Some small brass brushes and a can of Deoxit D5 will work a treat.

It might be a good time to do any paint touch ups if there is and around the battery or the rear master cylinder. There is nothing serviceable under the crank case breather cover ( port from airbox). You could go thru the main harness and look for chafing and loose connections. Buy new carb boots. You don’t need NOS, but don’t buy the $28 set off eBay. Get some from a well know place. Average cost of a descent aftermarket set is around $80-$90. Rotate the engine to TDC of number one plug and pull the cam chain tensioner. Service it and loosen the jamb bolt and lock nut and reinstall along with a new casket. The follow the FSM for adjusting.

Others might have more suggestions.

Here are two issues that you need to understand.

1. When removing stubborn fasteners just stop. Do not break them. Instead soak them with Kroil (see first image below) for a couple days. You will be absolutely amazed at how it will break the bond between the fastener and the engine or other item that it is screwed into. I have used it several times on stuck fasteners on my 1977 KZ650 and have always been thrilled at how well it worked.

2. There are no Phillips screws on the Kawasaki. Those screws that look like Phillips actually are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). Using a Phillips screwdriver on them WILL deform them and may or may not let you remove them. You need to use a JIS screwdriver on them or a Phillips screwdriver that has been modified (easily done) to conform to the JIS screwdriver shape. The second image below show the difference. That little tip on the Phillips screwdriver prevents it from seating properly into the JIS screw. It may not seem like much, but it really does matter. The third image below shows how well a modified Phillips screwdriver tip fits Kawasaki screws. Ed

I soaked them with my choice of penetrant for over a week. Heated the area where the bolt was in the head with a little MAPP. The left side very most outside one spun out flush with the head. The right side very most outer one, which I foolishly did not let soak for a week, like not at all, came off leaving me I think enough meat to dremel in a slot for a bid flat head. All other 6 came out no problem. I used my new JIS #3 tip as well. I saw your suggestion for that when I first got the bike and bought them right away. Thanks for all the help!!

Thanks! I assume the manual will advise on how to get the bike to TDC?

Be careful with MAPP gas aluminum can just instantaneously melt and run away.

Finding TDC is pretty simple pull out the number one spark plug put your thumb over the spark plug hole. Rotate the crank till you feel pressure start to build under your thumb. Grab a drinking straw from your favorite restaurant put it in the spark plug hole continue to rotate the crankshaft until the straw no longer rises.

Adjust the valves.

Paint the battery box. Swap the fuse box for a spade type fuse box.(unless you're a purist). Fresh HT cables,new plug caps.Monoshock conversion, USD front end............Ahhh! Where to stop?

I said the wrong torch. Just used my normal propane to slightly heat up! Found the TDC process in the manual, but thank you! Real good bunch of guys here. I appreciate the help!

LOL!!! Where to stop is a great question!! I'll do some cleaning up, touch up paint and look at al the electrical connections!

I know these valves are not as easy to adjust as the Honda's I've worked on for years,(Honda K24 car motors) but I'm going to look up the procedure to check them. If any need adjustment with the shims, that's where I might get into trouble. Have never done them.