Replace Clutch plates

I’m going to replace the clutch plates during the winter, but have a question to draining the oil.

I’m normaly prefer to drain the oil when its warm, but I cannot start up the dngine when I have placed it for winter storage...

So...
Option 1:
Warm up the engine, drain off oil. Store the bike and replace friction plates after 1-3 months and fill up oil again...

Option 2:
Winter store the bike and drain cold oil, replace friction plate and fill up oil again...

What do you think?

If you put the bike on the side stand when the clutch cover is removed some oil will be lost but not too much. When doing the last oil change for the year it will help if you remember to only fill to the bottom of the sight glass.

Nessism wrote: If you put the bike on the side stand when the clutch cover is removed some oil will be lost but not too much. When doing the last oil change for the year it will help if you remember to only fill to the bottom of the sight glass.

I understand, but will prefer to add new oil after the work is done... what you are saying I should Replace the oil hoot and not store without oil?

I would store with oil.

Nessism wrote: I would store with oil.

Thank you

I will do normal filter and oil change and suck (vaacum) out oil possible from the filling oil

Don’t have enougf space for side stand

One thing more the metal plates in the clutch should I clean them or do something with them? Nothing is mention in the haandbook...

It really shouldn't matter much hot or cold. I've always changed the oil in my 1977 KZ650 when the oil is cold. I've owned the bike since it was new (43+ years / 62,000+ miles). Ed

Check the steel plates to see if they are warped. (Unlikely) Measure the friction plates thickness. They may still be within the specification. All of this is in the manual.

I try to ask again, when you overhaul the clutch, shall you do something with the metal plate? Clean them?

You can clean the steel plates if they need it.
It won't do any harm to have them blast cleaned to etch the surface but as long as they are flat and rust free there's no real need.

I've read that a hd mirror is flat enough to check the plates and then maybe a very light scuff with x fine steel wool, clean with brake cleaner and a light coating of the bike oil and you should be set. Maybe change the oil hot and add 2 qts till you change out the plates ? I like to pull the plugs and give each cyl a shot of oil followed by a quick spin...... I even open the carbs full and give a quick shot of wd-40 through the carbs while spinning to coat the valves but I will admit this might be a little over kill.

Your factory manual should have this........... out of my 650 manual (so it might be diff from your 750.......... steel plate warp (using a mm feeler....... under .20mm with a service limit of .40mm. Like stated dought if they are bad. I also marked mine with a black marker to keep them in the same location (in the basket) and order that they've been in for all these years. The tabs and the housing clearance shows .34mm to .75mm standard and a service limit of 1.0mm.

KZB2 650 wrote: I've read that a hd mirror is flat enough to check the plates and then maybe a very light scuff with x fine steel wool, clean with brake cleaner and a light coating of the bike oil and you should be set. Maybe change the oil hot and add 2 qts till you change out the plates ? I like to pull the plugs and give each cyl a shot of oil followed by a quick spin...... I even open the carbs full and give a quick shot of wd-40 through the carbs while spinning to coat the valves but I will admit this might be a little over kill.

Your factory manual should have this........... out of my 650 manual (so it might be diff from your 750.......... steel plate warp (using a mm feeler....... under .20mm with a service limit of .40mm. Like stated dought if they are bad. I also marked mine with a black marker to keep them in the same location (in the basket) and order that they've been in for all these years. The tabs and the housing clearance shows .34mm to .75mm standard and a service limit of 1.0mm.

steel plate warp (using a mm feeler....... under .20mm with a service limit of .40mm.

How do you do these ? I dont understand how I can measure the wrap wrap with feeler hehe
Do I put all metal plate on top of each other and see if I can put the feeler in between them ???

Put the plate on a really flat surface and try to put the feeler gauge between the plate and surface.