TOPIC:

My clutch is working fine under normal driving, but if I give full throtle it can slip when the engine reach full torque, 5-6 RPM?

I’m using correct oil.

I guess I need to take out the friction plates and replace the springs....?

My question is, its better todo these to early then late?

Or can just do it when I «feel» it slips to much...?

Thank you for advice!

It more likely the friction plates rather than the springs. You can measure the springs, but I suspect they will be ok. The friction plates on the other hand probably are the problem. Ed

Did this just start happening after an oil change or oil top-off? Make sure there is not too much oil in the crankcase. There should be a bubble in the sight-window. If it's overfilled , get some oil out and it will take some time for the clutch to stop slipping.

I've never seen stock friction plates worn below the limit. Brand new ones are not that far above the limit to begin with. The springs, though are often near or below the limit after 10 or 20 years.

650ed wrote: It more likely the friction plates rather than the springs. You can measure the springs, but I suspect they will be ok. The friction plates on the other hand probably are the problem. Ed

No, opposite. The springs will sag from 40 years of being compressed. I'd replace the springs first and see how it works out. Grease the gasket so you can reuse it if need be.

1. Replace the friction plates. They may be worn, but more than likely they are tainted with additives to reduce friction that are in non-motorcycle specific motor oil. If you are going to take the cover off...replace everything. Don’t waste a gasket to do it twice.
2. Replace the clutch springs.
Do NOT not use heavy duty springs!! They will make it so hard to pull the clutch lever that eventually your clutch cable will snap. They are useless unless you have a heavily modified motor.
I’m running a 810 with almost every engine modification you can think of, and I’m running stock springs with zero slipping.

Hope this helps.

Nessism wrote:

650ed wrote: It more likely the friction plates rather than the springs. You can measure the springs, but I suspect they will be ok. The friction plates on the other hand probably are the problem. Ed

No, opposite. The springs will sag from 40 years of being compressed. I'd replace the springs first and see how it works out. Grease the gasket so you can reuse it if need be.

Maybe it depends o n the model? On my 1977 KZ650-C1 I replaced the friction plates because they were tainted with car oil that had friction modifiers that damaged them. After replacing the clutch plates I had zero slippage. That's my experience, but I guess other's experience may differ. I guess to be sure replace both the plates and the springs. Ed

Replace the springs. They are easier to replace and less expensive than plates. If you still have slippage, go back in and replace the plates.

Is your clutch adjusted properly?.

Thank you all.

It was not a issue last season as I can remember.
I will check the oil level, it can be its some higher then it should be.

When I got the bike 3-4 years ago it followd with a box with parts, it was some old springs in it, so its a chance that the springs has been checked.

I will check oil and double check the adjusment first.

If I overhaul the clutch next season, its:

Friction plates, 7 discs?

www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/13088...e19f8a2e44b2b16e639d

Clutch springs, 7 springs

www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/92081...e19f8a2e44b2b16e639d

These all the parts I need?
I need a special tool to get it loose?

7 discs and 5 springs and I'm glad you are looking at stock plates as from years of reading about them they are the way to go. When you did the rebuilt what clutch did you go with (the old plates and springs)? New springs for sure. if so. You can take a mike to the plates as I've read they hold up real well but if they were in a box who knows what they've been through. No special tools needed just go easy on the spring bolts using a inch lb wrench..

Under normal use they will not permanently compress. If the springs measure within spec they should be fine to continue using.

I've replace mine 3 times I think now.......... after 20 years mine measured either .060 or .080 shorter than the new ones (have it wrote down some where) and they were notably weaker compressing them by hand.