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Clutch slipp
- gordone
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I’m using correct oil.
I guess I need to take out the friction plates and replace the springs....?
My question is, its better todo these to early then late?
Or can just do it when I «feel» it slips to much...?
Thank you for advice!
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- loudhvx
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I've never seen stock friction plates worn below the limit. Brand new ones are not that far above the limit to begin with. The springs, though are often near or below the limit after 10 or 20 years.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- Nessism
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650ed wrote: It more likely the friction plates rather than the springs. You can measure the springs, but I suspect they will be ok. The friction plates on the other hand probably are the problem. Ed
No, opposite. The springs will sag from 40 years of being compressed. I'd replace the springs first and see how it works out. Grease the gasket so you can reuse it if need be.
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- Daftrusty
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2. Replace the clutch springs.
Do NOT not use heavy duty springs!! They will make it so hard to pull the clutch lever that eventually your clutch cable will snap. They are useless unless you have a heavily modified motor.
I’m running a 810 with almost every engine modification you can think of, and I’m running stock springs with zero slipping.
Hope this helps.
1990 zr550
kz750e
650/750 6-speed Transmission Swap
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- 650ed
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Nessism wrote:
650ed wrote: It more likely the friction plates rather than the springs. You can measure the springs, but I suspect they will be ok. The friction plates on the other hand probably are the problem. Ed
No, opposite. The springs will sag from 40 years of being compressed. I'd replace the springs first and see how it works out. Grease the gasket so you can reuse it if need be.
Maybe it depends o n the model? On my 1977 KZ650-C1 I replaced the friction plates because they were tainted with car oil that had friction modifiers that damaged them. After replacing the clutch plates I had zero slippage. That's my experience, but I guess other's experience may differ. I guess to be sure replace both the plates and the springs. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- ckahleer
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94 KE100
81 CM200t
82 KZ305
85 VF1100c
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- kevski
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- gordone
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It was not a issue last season as I can remember.
I will check the oil level, it can be its some higher then it should be.
When I got the bike 3-4 years ago it followd with a box with parts, it was some old springs in it, so its a chance that the springs has been checked.
I will check oil and double check the adjusment first.
If I overhaul the clutch next season, its:
Friction plates, 7 discs?
www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/13088...e19f8a2e44b2b16e639d
Clutch springs, 7 springs
www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/92081...e19f8a2e44b2b16e639d
These all the parts I need?
I need a special tool to get it loose?
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
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- KZB2 650
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1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- hardrockminer
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I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
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- KZB2 650
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1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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