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hey guys i can seem to find an online manual for the kz700-a1. i looking to check some valves on a donor motor i may have to temporally run in my 750. it seems the cam lobes are oriented different than the kz750 , so i'm looking for the correct procedure and specs . anything will help. Thanks!

The 750-4 manual covers the KZ700. There's a good pdf available, either here in the Filebase or at the 750Turbo site.
I think the valve adjustment procedure would be pretty much the same as a 750 & the 84 supplement section doesn't
mention anything about the 700 being different.

750turbo.com >>> Downloads >>> Full manual (128mb PDF) .
80-85 750-4 chain drive manual. Yellow/gold cover w color wiring diagrams. 1980-84 KZ750-4. 84 KZ700. 1983-85 ZX750.
note: there's also a poorly copied version floating around the internet, so be sure to get the good one. Tag KZ750 pdf manual

thanks for a the response. im use to checking valve clearance when the cam lobes are parallel with the valve cover surface. but it looks like its ok to check with the valves vertical as well. ill give that a go.. thanks

I'm not a fan of the cam position callout in the factory manual for the 750. I believe the method described in the later year 1000/1100 bikes is much better (and coincidentally the same as Suzuki recommends for the GS bikes.) In essence, the cam is positioned so two adjacent valves are both on the base circle, then the valves are checked in pairs. This method is more accurate because the factory cam positioning method results in the adjacent valve to the one being checked being compressed, which pushed up on the cam and skews it in the journal clearance.

This method is dead easy to remember and you don't need to look at the T and F marks on the timing plate.

1) Rotate engine until #1 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward, parallel the gasket surface, then measure #1 & #2 exhaust valves.
2) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward..............................................................................#4 & #3 exhaust valves.
3) Rotate engine until #1 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the gasket surface, then measure #1 & #2 intake valves.
4) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing straight up............................................................................#4 $ #3 intake valves.

Again, this method is same as the factory method for the bike KZ's. If it's okay for those, it's okay for the smaller bikes too.

I totally agree with Nessism, I just checked my lash and this time did it per FSM. They were off, previously I had just put the cam on the bottom of the base circle for the valve I was checking. I was very meticulous in doing it that way and thought I had them correct. Just a few days ago I went thru a complete valve lash check per FSM and there were off. It had only been about 6-8 months sense I did it last so I don’t factor that into the discrepancy. I’m going to use the big4’s method from now on. BTW bike ran better after this lash, gonna say that confirms Nessism’s statement.

sweet. thats a huge help. good to know a tried a true way that check lash. good looking out guys.
-Eric

Nessism wrote:
4) Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing straight up............................................................................#4 $ #3 intake valves..

First up, thanks for this. I'll use this method next once I've replaced my base gasket and got the block and head back on. I assume that you meant #4 intake cam lobe for step 4 though?