TOPIC:

Next project after thaw-out is to remove the old EBC fiber plates I installed fifteen + years ago, along with the near four decade young steel ones...

Other than a good oil soak for the fiber plates, is any preparation recommended for the dimply steel ones?
And should the oil be changed soon after, due to the plates all break'n in?

I wonder will there be a noticeable difference how well the clutch operates.

Can't wait to find out!

I'd add a set of new OEM springs while the clutch is apart. And don't think you need to do a short oil change. The bike has an oil filter to catch particulate matter.

Why are you changing them? If you check the service manual you will find a series of checks and measurements to determine if the plates and/or springs need replacing.

hardrockminer wrote: Why are you changing them? If you check the service manual you will find a series of checks and measurements to determine if the plates and/or springs need replacing.

Good question. The aftermarket fiber plates (installed in 2006), and forty-ish year old steel plates may be slipping a little at times.
New Kaw clutch springs were installed in 2012. I think they were the 92081-1033 specified for KZ1000 Police.

If your clutch is properly adjusted then you may have worn your fibre plates to the point of replacement. But both of my Z1's have original fibre and steel plates and they are all still well within specification. My suggestion would be to pull them and measure them with a micrometer. Also check the steel plates for flatness, as a warped plate should be changed out. Otherwise there is no need to replace the steel plates.

You can find the plate specs in the service manual.

My bike has over 104,000 miles, which includes the bottom of the motor. I added 72,000 miles of that since September 28, 2000.
Every year of those she ran better than the one before, and this year will be no exception.

Have you try to put some new high performance clutch springs on before you re-new the internals?

Scirocco wrote: Have you try to put some new high performance clutch springs on before you re-new the internals?

Nope, just a different generator rotor and starter-clutch. Moving to the right side when Springtime (lol) arrives.

Scirocco wrote: Have you try to put some new high performance clutch springs on before you re-new the internals?

"High performance clutch springs" = aching hand

The stock springs should be fine. I'd renew them though...

Agree fully with Nessism! Also, be sure to use the correct motor oil (JASO-MA certified - not "Energy Conserving") or the clutch will soon slip no matter what parts you install. Ed

I understand that Rotella T4 is a good choice for oil based on member comments, and have been using it for a couple years. I hope oil consumption will be past with the new 1135 MTC piston kit and precision bore job in there now.

So the new set of clutch springs installed in 2012 should be replaced, eh...

Didn't see much in the APE catalog, and normally consider OEM Gen Kaw for such things. I don't know...

I installed six brand new OEM Gen Kaw KZ1000 Police springs at that time, which may be stronger than KZ1100 springs.
Lever movement has been smooth and comfortable ever since, and there isn't any chatter or noticeable slippage off the line (stop signs, traffic lights, etc). But I have sensed an occasional slip when jetting to speed getting on the highway.

My thinking is that the new clutch plate set should be thicker than what's in there now, and that should firm up the spring pressure some.
Maybe I'm all wet about that.

Stock clutch sprints are $3.49 each.

www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/92081...c3989b41ee6de28c822c