Repairing cylinder barrel

As others have eluded to in previous reply’s, the sleeves come out with minimal effort. Heating the cylinder block in an oven at 300° F will let the sleeves slide/fall right out.
BUT....when reinstalling the good sleeves in other block, when the aluminum cools it will squeeze the sleeves out ever so slightly. (This is a known issue at work when we resleeve aluminum V8 racing blocks.) You will need to invent a way to temporarily bolt your cylinder head (or steel block) straight to cylinder block as the aluminum cool so the sleeves can’t get squeezed out. Chances are you will still have to have the block decked as the liners rarely will be flush with the “new” cylinder block surface.
If you don’t do this and you get the block decked, there will be a small gap between the lip of the sleeve and the sleeve bore and the next time your engine is run, the sleeve will move up and down ever so slightly in that newly created gap.
I hope this makes sense.

Also Nessism is exactly right. Have a machine shop check the straightness of the bores after the swap. This process will surely distort them to some degree. But it may not be enough to worry about re-honing.

Thanks for all the great replies. I have all the information to make a decision now!

In practice, I'll probably ride it round with broken fins for a while and see what else shakes out and needs fixing...

There is nothing much to lose by trying to glue on the fins back on. I'd do some research on the 3M site to see what kind of high temp epoxy material you can use.

Here's a couple clips on how I did mine.
Steve