Disassembly/reassembly questions

Hello again. Some more noob questions - help and advice appreciated. I have a few simple yes/no questions, having read my workshop manual over and over. The bike in question is a GT550 (basically a 550 shaftie, like a Spectre 550). The goal is to split the halves to carry out some gearbox work/inspection.

In short, I believe I know exactly what I need to do, and how I'm going to do it. But I thought I'd check over a few areas in which I have doubts (because I've altered a few steps from the Haynes manual to make things a bit easier for myself).

Disassembly:
1) Engine is still in frame. Alternator cover is off. Timing pickup cover is off. Front bevel assembly cover (on the left side of the engine) is off. Ignition pickups holder is off. Clutch cover is off. Clutch plates are off but clutch basket is still on. Bike is in 5th gear. Grab clutch basket with clutch basket holder to hold it steady, and undo the bolt on the right of the crank holding the ignition timing plate, and remove the ignition timing plate. Is this feasible/wise?
2) Engine is still in frame. Alternator cover is off. Timing pickup cover is off. Front bevel assembly cover (on the left side of the engine) is off. Ignition pickups holder is off. Clutch cover is off. Clutch plates are off but clutch basket is still on. Bike is in 5th gear. Grab clutch basket with clutch basket holder to hold it steady, and loosen the secondary shaft holding nut on the left side of the engine. Is this feasible/wise?
3) Engine is still in frame. Alternator cover is off. Timing pickup cover is off. Front bevel assembly cover (on the left side of the engine) is off. Ignition pickups holder is off. Clutch cover is off. Clutch plates are off but clutch basket is still on. Bike is in 5th gear. Use an ordinary C-spanner rather than the Kawasaki-specific damper cam holder tool (part 570011025) to loosen the nut holding the cam that engages the front bevel drive gear of the shaft drive. Is this feasible/wise?

Reassembly:
Engine bolted right back onto the frame, and do the reverse of the above operations (i.e. do those things with bike in gear, substituting for lack of specialist tools by holding the clutch basket steady, etc.

If you're going to split the cases you will need to remove the head and cylinders. I think you can do it without removing the entire engine. I wouldn't worry about pulling the clutch shaft until the cases are split. Take off all the externals you mentioned, and also remove the head and cylinders. Unbolt the engine mounts and you should be able to remove them the engine by hand. Once out of the frame you can remove the case bolts and split the cases.

If you are only concerned with the transmission, maybe it's possible to remove the lower case without disassembling the head/cylinders/pistons/crankshaft. But it would require taking the motor out of the frame and setting it upside down. Then the lower case can be lifted off. I'm not sure it can be done that way, but it seems worth looking into since wit will be much easier than disassembling the entire motor in the bike.

Yes, that's correct. I'm only concerned about whether it's possible to remove the nut holding the secondary shaft in the way I described, and the front bevel gear holding in the cam which engages the front bevel drive in the way I described. And also loosening that nut which holds the timing plate. I thought of these methods because I don't want to buy 1) a strap wrench which may not work; 2) the Kawasaki cam holder tool. Doing these particular steps with the engine in the frame gives more leverage, and hopefully those specialist tools won't be necessary.

The other bits of the disassembly and reassembly have been understood and will involve removing the engine, tipping it onto the ground, lots of other steps, etc. It will be tipped upside down, etc. Lots of seals will be renewed, it will be a brawny exercise but I have no doubts or issues about anything else. The head and barrels will stay in place. I just came up with these techniques (bike in gear, clutch basket held in tool while various super-tight nuts are loosened or torqued back up) and wanted to check if they worked.

The timing plate is held in with 3 screws. Maybe you mean the timing advancer? That is held in place with a bolt. The larger "nut" under the bolt is not an actual nut. It is a hex keyed to the advancer to allow you to rotate the crankshaft. The larger nut just comes off with the advancer.

Yes, that's correct. It's not the timing plate (which holds the pickups) I'm worried about, but the bolt underneath holding that plate which has T, F, etc. marked on it.