TOPIC:

My bike is only running on one cylinder but not always. Recently I fix the exhaust leak at the headers. I then checked the valve lash (@.020 mm). I checked the carb balance and sightly adjusted it to be pretty much dead on. I then reset the idle mixture as best I could. I took it for a run around the block and it ran perfect from idle to full throttle. I checked compression and both sides are at 145 plus or minus 2. Next day I started it up and it ran like crap. Shut it off and found the left cylinder was the only one running. I pulled the carbs to see if it was a stuck float and they move fine. Cleaned out the jets while I was in there. I put it back on and it still was running only one cylinder. Yesterday I went out and put in new plugs. Plugs are both firing. I swapped wires and still no go. Made sure all plug wire connection were good and it started running both cylinders. Went for a trip around the block and all was good. Shut it off and back to one cylinder. One issue is that cylinders exhaust shows oil burning smoke for a couple of minutes when first started but goes away. Any ideas as to what the heck is going on or what to look into?

Background:
I have had the bike for 17 months. Maybe 200 miles ride time on it.
I replaced the coil soon after I got the bike w/ a Dyna 3.0 ohm green coil
Wires replaced w/ NGK wires
Carb was completely gone through following all the steps from the tutorial here.
Added stock exhaust and air-box so re-jetted carb to original
Battery replaced
New head gasket
recently replaced the head. When I did so I made sure the valves all sealed water tight

Sorry for the long post but I wanted try and get you all the information I think you might need.

Grcko wrote:
I then checked the valve lash (@.020

Are you sure about your valve clearence??? 0,020 mm is really tight. The valve lash should be 0,170 - 0,220 mm.

Typo It is 0.20 mm Right in the middle of specs.

When you swapped plug wires, did the misfiring cylinder move with the swap? You can tell by using an infrared temperature sensor to look at the cylinder head temps right near the exhaust port. The misfiring cylinder will be quite a bit cooler than the other one.

If not already done, would perform the clear tube test on each carb to assure that it"s fuel level is within spec.

A too high fuel level can result in an excessively rich mixture in an otherwise perfect carb, which excessively rich mixture sometimes allows combustion within the cylinder for short while until the plug fouls out due to the excessive richness.

Good Fortune!

Sorry for late reply. Honey-do kept me busy all weekend

gavroyer: Swapping wires and old plugs around made no difference Replaced the plugs to take them out of the mix.

Patton: Thanks. I was thinking this weekend that I should pull the carbs again and make sure all the passages are cleaned out and do a clear tube test at that time. Neither should have changed in the short time since I did them last time. Then again, this bike seems to come up with something new a few weeks after I fix the last thing.

I finally got into the carbs last night. Cleaned out al the passages with a nylon bristle and sprayed carb cleaner through all of them.
Checked the fuel level and it was just under 5mm on side and 7mm on the side that is dropping. I fiddled around and got them both at 5mm. before I had to stop for the night.
My question is if the service level is 3mm - 5mm, should I raise it up or is it good at 5mm?

If it were my bike I'd raise them, but mostly because I'm paranoid about letting the bike run lean for fear of melting a hole in a piston or something. But if you're in the service limit, it's probably fine.

Well I found some time this weekend to get the fuel level set. It is at 4mm both sides. I set the idle screw at 2 3/4 for now. I will need to adjust it I am sure. Put the carb back on the bike and it started right up. I did a test run around the block and it runs nice. I rode into work and back yesterday (22 freeway miles @ up to 70 mph each way) and there is no stutter or lag.
But of course fixing one thing always leads to another. Arriving at work I found that there is a tiny leak at the clutch cover when running. I replaced the gasket last night and rode in today. Leak is still there but moved a bit. And the valves seem to be ticking. Oh well. Such is my life with this bike.
I appreciate you all taking the time to help me with my bike issues. Thanks.

I found that the clutch cover gasket on mine needed a very thin coating of blue RTV to get the best seal. Otherwise I too had a leak from the cover.

I went against my better judgement and didn't use any as the old one didn't have any on it. Live and learn.

I don't know about the 440, but on the liter bikes, Kawasaki recommends a smear of your favorite KawaYamaHondaThree Bond across the joints where the case halves come together.